Chain and sprocket change - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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Chain and sprocket change

Well, I am about to take on a chain and sprocket change on my 05 800 Classic. I have not done this before. I need all the advice I can get. Please help. How difficult is it? Any tricks to it? Thanks!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 07:24 AM
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Probably should change the front sprocket too if that wasn't in the original plan.

I prefer and use only rivet master links, but many use the clip style. If you use the clip style it's my understanding you want to put the clip so the closed end points the same direction as the chain moves.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that info. But I need tips about the front sprocket. I am a little concerned about what happens when I take the cover off.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 07:45 PM
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Take the cover off. Use a socket and an air impact wrench. Put the bike in gear and put the rear brake on tightly. Let it rip. Should come right off. Its NOT a reverse thread nut. Normal thread. Good luck.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 11:02 AM
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A clip type master link is OK, but a rivet type is better (read stronger).

However, EK now makes a "screw-type" Master Link that is as strong as a rivet & doesn't require a rivet tool that you only need every 30,000 miles. Just an 8mm wrench - it was easy and foolproof.

At around 8,000 miles I swapped the OEM 17/42 sprockets with a set of 18/40's. OEM 112 link chain still fit fine and got a nice 10% RPM drop. Best mod I've done.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 06:37 AM
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The front sprocket has a washer under the nut , it will be bent over one side of the nut to lock it . You will first need to bend that edge flat before you try to remove the nut. A hammer & punch should work for this. This nut can be quite stubborn by the way. Don't worry about the cover , one fastener and it slides out , it's just a cover so nothing is going to fall out or become disengaged.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C50T-VN800B View Post
If it's a riveted chain you will have to grind the rivets off the front of the chain facing you. If it is a clip type you will have to remove the master link.
If its an endless chain like the stock one, you can also use bolt cutters if you have no other tools for breaking the chain. Just wear some eye protection when you do as this isn't the safest way to do this.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davemn View Post
Take the cover off. Use a socket and an air impact wrench. Put the bike in gear and put the rear brake on tightly. Let it rip. Should come right off. Its NOT a reverse thread nut. Normal thread. Good luck.
There is a wave type locking washer holding the nut. Flatten it out away from the nut as flush as you can get it before attempting to remove the nut.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:57 AM
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Just thought of good tip. When putting cover back on over front sprocket, the rubber "seal" can be a pain. Put it on the stator cover then carefully slip the sprocket cover back into place. This can be easier if you remove the side cover.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffjo View Post
I swapped the OEM 17/42 sprockets with a set of 18/40's. OEM 112 link chain still fit fine and got a nice 10% RPM drop. Best mod I've done.
Same here, best thing I have done.
While you have it apart it is very quick and easy to change the front sprocket, and you will notice a huge difference at highway speeds. The only trouble I had was with the rear sprocket, it required a little persuasion to get it off the hub.

As for master links, I prefer clip type. I always had clip links on dirt bikes for years and put them through a lot of abuse, never had one fail. Also, I think most crotch rockets use clip type, that is quite a bit of torque on some of those bikes.
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