Howdy, y'all! This is my first bike ever and I'm having to do some work to her. I can't get it to start. While reading this just assume i overlooked all obvious answers.
When I got the bike, before replacing anything, I could get it to crank by jumping the relay across the posts and jumping the bike's battery off a spare truck battery.
The bike's battery tested good at autozone, so I kept it, but replaced the relay because the previous owner had rigged up some aftermarket busted one. After replacing that relay. I got to the "key on, warning lights light, hit starter button, relay clicks, lights die for a little" stage.
After a month of tinkering and finally buying a multimeter (analog. ) and doing a lot of reading on this forum, I came to the conclusion that the battery was bad.
Now I replaced the battery with a cheaper "add the acid" battery. I installed it and checked/cleaned as many connections as i felt comfortable tracing to on my own. Now the damn lights don't even come on.. I double checked the connections I messed with and all is good far as I can tell! I'm getting lost. I don't know the electrical systems of a bike at all, even though I'm sure it's simple enough.
I apologize for the long post, but like I said it's my first bike and I really do appreciate any and all help. I'm determined not to take her to a shop as it'll save money and I can learn soooo much tinkering with it myself!
Yessir, I sure have. Let me say that in the left-hand side compartment there is a gray cylinder deal that is attached to the frame with brass spacers and has one green and one red wire going to it. I took that off and cleaned it up. There is also a lot of other harnesses and connections in that compartment. I did not mess with those.
How do you know which side of the relay is supposed to be positive? Mine has a "B" on one side near the post and the other side has a "M".
Needle is reading between 12-13V with meter set to 50DCV.
It's also, worth saying I just bought the battery 3 days ago. Added acid, let stand for an hour, topped off with acid, charged for 10hrs, topped off with distilled water and re-charged to mix per the instructions.
No, the posts were on opposite sides, but if I faced the battery away from the relay, then the cables reached fine. Nice, tight, and clean. I did have to bend the cable ends (terminals?) a little, but they aren't touching the battery or any part of the frame.
Okay, remember that young and dumb thing... Had the leads on the relay reversed. Now I'm back to the relay giving me 1 click and then dash lights die. Head/brake light never dies. Is there a fuse box I can check? I'd also like to check the starter motor, but I'm thinking I should still get a "machine gun" effect, not just one and done.
OK, we have to recap because this wiring has obviously been tampered with. This makes it even tougher to troubleshoot on the internet.
1. Starter solenoid, battery have been replaced.
2. Headlight (it should not), tail light come on with key on.
3. Engine will not crank with switch on handlebar.
4. Engine will start by jumping start solenoid.
sounds like a rigged up system. my first thought would be to check the start switch. if you have a fully charged battery, you shouldn't be shorting and dying that quick... it screams short to me... either that, or the battery isnt strong enough in cranking amps... not likely the starter. im a new rider, but ive been playing with electrical systems on things for a while. also, see if you can dig up the starting requirements on your bike. my truck requires somewhere between 13 and 14 volts for normal operation. it will start with less, but it cranks slow.
Per your post, I am now attempting to trace electrical. If for nothing else, to learn the bike. I was able to get the start button/kill switch apart, cleaned and attempting to put back together.
I believe the battery ground goes straight to the motor at the base of the rear cylinder on the back side of cylinder. Its an 8mm bolt head you get to from the right side if I remember right. Make sure your connection here is clean and tight.
Battery positive to selinoid, the large cable opposite this goes directly to the starter. Have you cleaned all these and checked for tightness? Also check the starter bolts are tight.
The only large cables are battery positive and ground. Then there is a small wire running to ground post on battery and a wiring harness coming off solenoid. Thanks, Rick!
Think there should be positive cable from battery, a plug with smaller wires next to the main fuse and another cable like the positive cable that goes to the starter. Been awhile since I've looked at mine, but believe this is right. I could be wrong. It happened once when I married my 1st wife.
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