I just received my kit on Friday. Mighty fast i might add. I installed it and have taken two test runs. Here are my initial impressions. Keep in mind i have not yet installed my EJK or my Vance and Hines slip-ons.
1. The performance boost is substantial. I live at 7000 feet and the bike felt very sluggish. Now at ALL speeds i have excellent acceleration. She really need some air.
2. I haven't ran a full tank yet but the gas millage seems to have improved from 35 MPG to 45 MPG and i am an AGRESSIVE rider.
3. The bike is running much cooler.
I almost can't imagine why i would need the Dobek at this point but it's on order.
I was also wondering, Joe, why we keep the stock air filter on the left….?
Only real reason to keep that filter might be to dampen the noise that might crossover. I'm still considering how I can go about converting that space into storage.
Looking to purchase a Chucksters Big Air Kit. How do you get a hold of this company? I sent an email and received no response. The website has no other contact info other than email. Anyone have a phone number?
Looking to purchase a Chucksters Big Air Kit. How do you get a hold of this company? I sent an email and received no response. The website has no other contact info other than email. Anyone have a phone number?
from the outside it looks bone stock. But the backside of the air box is gone. I didn't take any pics but if you want me to take it apart i can. I like Chucksters because it gives the performance of all the others but leaves the stock air box. I was afraid others would stick out too far.
Joe called me back and was extremely helpful. Thanks for the feedback. The only problem I have with power is when I ride two up, so I told my girlfriend to stay home. She didn't like that idea, so I am getting a big air kit for my Birthday present at the end of the month! Just kidding about my girlfriend staying home, I love my sweetie! I have a question, I want to keep the stock pipes, so I plan to drill out the baffles to increase air flow. Do I need a special drill bit or an extension to reach through the pipes? How large of a drill bit do I use? How many baffles in each pipe? Do I need to take off the pipes to do this project?
I just saw the film clip on the new Gadget site, so I now know what a baffle looks like. The baffle was removed from a 1500 Nomad using the 1 3/4 bit. I have a 2005 1600 classic, which has different pipes with a wider mouth. The opening of the baffle is surrounded by approximately 1/2" of metal. Do I need to just drill around the opening of the baffle to get it out or will that metal trim get in the way of removal?
BTW, I am glad to see that site up and running again. Very helpful tips!
Removing the actual baffle is not required and is a messy job, that only one or two 1700 owners have done with limited success. The 1700 baffles are unique and nothing like those of the 1500 or 1600 so forget any tutorials concerning those models.
All you need to do is drill thru the two plates in the central core of each baffle using a 1-1/4" Diameter Bimetal Hole Saw (Not 1-3/4"). You will need an extension or two to reach the plates since the first plate is about 6" from the end (outlet) and the second plate is at least another 6" further in. Be careful with the 2nd plate as the catalytic material is just behind it. You may need to fish out the slugs you cut out with a magnet if you don't have a good hole saw that retains the slug.
Try drilling out just the first plate in each muffler first to see if you like it. You cannot go back once you drill out the second plate and you are much more likely to get decel popping with both plates removed.
Thanks guys for your feedback. The baffle that was removed in the film clip looked like a tube, so I do not see how that tube can restrict air flow by that much to make a significant difference in power. I am going take this mod one step at a time. I will start with the air kit and go from there.
Joe from Chucksters Customs said I will see a boost in power with the kit. If I am looking for more power he suggested adding new pipes and a fuel management system. I love the look of the stock pipes so that’s not an option. I will take your advice Vulcan Hammer and just drill out the first plate. From what I read on this forum, I guess I do not need a fuel management system since I am keeping the stock pipes.
Would one of you guys that bought from joe give a step by step install process for the rest of us thinking about it, for the 1700's....thanks....ride on....
Joe provides detailed instructions with his kits according to other members. I spoke to Joe last week, he answered all my questions, was very helpful and said I can call anytime with questions. Tel. No. is 517-474-2663
My Chucksters Big Air Kit arrived today. I am going to read through the instructions tonight and may do the install as well. Fast shipping, I ordered the kit on Monday. Thanks Joe! I am still on the fence about the debaffle exhaust mod, stage 1,2 or 3? There is so much information on the web my head is spinning. So I will keep you posted on both mods. I am sure there will be more questions.
I have a question Vulcan Hammer, after I drill out the first plate, do I remove the first baffle as well or keep it in there??
On 2008 nomad 1600: I heard installing chuckster air kit will stop the after market exhaust from popping during deceleration? They said i won't need to do the marble technique (block Reed valve?) I'm ready to order air kit and want that deceleration popping to stop... anyone have input?
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