Problems with new 2007 500 - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sfair View Post
See post number 12, second diagnostic test.
Driveway revving will tell you nothing.

Post back with any questions.
No visible cracks or gaps at boots, sprayed carb cleaner on them, didn't seem to have any effect. After running for 5 minutes while I sprayed the carb cleaner, there was no hesitation when I tried riding it, though idle still hangs and there seems to be power loss.
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 03:02 PM
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No visible cracks or gaps at boots, sprayed carb cleaner on them, didn't seem to have any effect. After running for 5 minutes while I sprayed the carb cleaner, there was no hesitation when I tried riding it, though idle still hangs and there seems to be power loss.
Hate to say it,But your carbs are gonna need to come off for a cleaning.

If at first you do succeed,try not to look surprised!
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 03:17 PM
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No visible cracks or gaps at boots, sprayed carb cleaner on them, didn't seem to have any effect. After running for 5 minutes while I sprayed the carb cleaner, there was no hesitation when I tried riding it, though idle still hangs and there seems to be power loss.
So as you add throttle it doesnt return to a nice idle afree you release? A hanging idle is usually an intake leak. Though on my old GS it was occasionally due to finicky throttle linkage on the carbs themselves. I would hope though that a 5 year old bike that was at least reasonably cared for wouldnt have such an issue. Anyhow a good carb teardown, thorough cleaning and rebuild can help solve a multitude of issues. Its also a very good learning process. Also if the boots or any seals look even remotely questionable just go ahead and replace them when you take the carbs off. Intake leaks will drive you crazy. Also check that the air filter is good and properly inplace and there is no leaks from the airbox to the intake of the carbs.

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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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When I first start it up, it sputters and hesitates when I open the throttle. After running for a couple minutes the hesitation seems to go away, but I close the throttle it gradually returns to idle over 2-5 seconds. Idle is a bit rough, and randomly speeds up slightly, acceleration is also a bit rough and weak. Since most of the problems started right after putting the seafoam in the gas, I'm guessing the seafoam may have loosened some gunk that clogged something.

Last edited by FCastle; 12-11-2012 at 03:48 PM.
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 04:01 PM
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Yeah based on that description I would go ahead and tear down the carbs, please dont just spray some cleaner on them. Take them apart, remove all the jets and preferably get a bucket of berrymans carb dip and dip all the parts you can but be careful to not dip any plastic or rubber parts, especially orings. Take your time with disassembly and be systematic abd take notes of what went where. Labeled bags or cups work well to organize parts. Make sure to thoroughly clean every small passage in the carb body and spray them out with compressed air, the cans for computers work great.

Its really not that difficult if you are patient with it. Plus you have a lot of people here to help you out.

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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 04:31 PM
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be careful to not dip any plastic or rubber parts, especially orings. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Motorcycle.com Free App
O-rings are important, but if you should contaminate, pin hole or tear the slide diaghragm, we will hear the cries of pain across town when you price them out!

Last edited by sfair; 12-11-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 06:14 PM
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Hanging idle means vacuum leak. The idle hangs because it is getting air from elsewhere besides the carb.
Spent hours trying to find a vacuum leak when I was having almost the same problem, to no avail. After the carbs were opened up, looked at, and sprayed out with compressed air, it ran beautifully.

I'm not saying that it still couldn't be a vacuum leak, I'm just saying there's more than one cause for a lean running condition.
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 07:09 PM
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Spent hours trying to find a vacuum leak when I was having almost the same problem, to no avail. After the carbs were opened up, looked at, and sprayed out with compressed air, it ran beautifully.

I'm not saying that it still couldn't be a vacuum leak, I'm just saying there's more than one cause for a lean running condition.
Yep.A lot of times it's a plugged pilot jet!

If at first you do succeed,try not to look surprised!
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not really comfortable putting the carbs back together, and don't have a place to have them in pieces for a while, so decided to take it to a shop while it's still semi-driveable. Called a local shop that a couple friends recommended, he said the same thing, sounds like something is clogged in the carbs. Since it's running lean, is it okay to drive it for about 6 miles with the choke half on, or will that overheat the engine?
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 06:46 PM
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I'm not really comfortable putting the carbs back together, and don't have a place to have them in pieces for a while, so decided to take it to a shop while it's still semi-driveable. Called a local shop that a couple friends recommended, he said the same thing, sounds like something is clogged in the carbs. Since it's running lean, is it okay to drive it for about 6 miles with the choke half on, or will that overheat the engine?
You will be fine as the choke richens the mixture.Just don't push it.

If at first you do succeed,try not to look surprised!
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