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Very Loud Knock

15K views 68 replies 11 participants last post by  sfair 
#1 · (Edited)
Very Loud Knock "UPDATE"

Just got this 94 en500. Had been sitting in the weather for over a year. rebuilt carbs and got her running. But has loud knock at idle. As loud as the sound of exhaust. Sounds like a jack hammer. Have not ridden it yet. Worried it may throw a rod or something. Any thoughts. Its steady and increases and decreases with throttle. :frown2:
 
#37 · (Edited)
Sorry read that as Biker Bill. LOL Tensioner is good. I bought a manual one and installed it.
How do I check the other options?

Also, wouldn't most of the other 3 sound wise be on the right side?

This bike sat outside in the weather for over a year. Is it possible that the oil lines may be plugged and not servicing the entire engine?
 
#39 ·
You'd be doing yourself a favor to have someone local who knows how to identify the knock and suggest how to fix it. It's very difficult to diagnose over the internet. You've already done repairs/changes that were probably not needed. Save yourself time, effort and money by having it diagnosed locally.
 
#40 · (Edited)
All 3 flywheel related scenarios I've posted are common, known issues to the EX/EN 454/500 series.
If the knocking is indeed at the lower LH crankcase, rest assured, it'll be flywheel related.

a quick Google search found this pertinent thread from EN450 forum...Starter, clutch, flywheel trouble?? | THE KAWASAKI EN450 / 454 LTD FORUM Member Blaine here is an Admin there and actively posted valid info within the thread.

Sounds to me as if Roidfingers (OP) is fully capable...a flywheel pull can be accomplished in 20-30-40 minutes tops....provided a correct flywheel puller is in hand ....Motion Pro 08-0116 Flywheel Puller just $8 on ebay.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help everyone. I have ordered the puller and will tackle this when it gets here. So something in the clutch is causing a constant knock that will increase with rpm, but my clutch works fine and there is no change in sound of knock when engaging or disengaging clutch. And it's something in the clutch ??

So I need to open left and the right side covers? What am I physically looking for under each cover. ???
 
#42 ·
The starter clutch is behind the flywheel, LH side cover.....the engine clutch is inside RH crankcase, but not your area of concern.

In easy to understand terms..the starter clutch allows the starter and related gears to grab the crank and rotate the engine, activated when the starter button is depressed....coupling the starter gears and crankshaft...cranking the engine over. When the starter button is released, the starter clutch disconnects itself from the crankshaft (engine now running).

So the starter clutch and engine clutch are in two different areas and hold different functions. Your only concern at the moment is the starter clutch area which lies on the backside of the flywheel....I'll submit that is where your noise is emanating from....very likely loose starter clutch bolt(s) of which there are 3, allen heads to be specific. Have loctite on hand, too.

You'll only need to pull the left hand crankcase cover....not the right.

Prior to doing this exploratory...I'd again advise researching a parts breakdown in the online fiche....ronayers.com: Online Shopping Motorsports Parts for your year and model to familiarize yourself with what you'll be looking at.

After pulling the flywheel , you'll be looking for exploded, missing flywheel magnets (front side of flywheel, worst case scenario), loose bolts (on the backside, easiest fix), broken springs or defective rollers inside the starter clutch arrangement (may require a further parts purchase)

Just for yuks, my money is on loose bolt or bolts on the flywheel backside.

Be aware the flywheel and crank are "keyed"....there is a woodruff key coupling the 2...the flywheel pulls straight outward (thus the puller tool) and reinstalls straight inward.

I've done an EX500 flywheel pull due to extreme "clunking" during starting....in my case the starter clutch springs were fatigued....the rollers were bouncing around causing noise.

Loose bolts are very common...some youtube vids may even exist with before and after noise, too. Here's one with exploded magnets, in the vid she pulls the flywheel using puller, all that I've mentioned are visible.
 
#43 ·
Seems pretty easy. Just waiting on my puller to arrive in mail. Glad you posted that video. I've been loking for the bolt you've been speaking of and the fiche doesn't really show them. But I saw them when she turned the flywheel over. Thank you so much. I'll let you know what I find or don't find when puller gets here. Hoping its not a rod bearing !!!!!!
 
#52 ·
Could be rod, we just eliminated a common failure area.

Roid may want to run the engine without cover (with flywheel installed) for a few seconds to better aid pinpointing of noise source.
It'll be ok for a few seconds (provided you didn't drain oil)

At this point, can you post a you tube vid of noise?
 
#54 ·
"If" it is a rod knock that does not change under load, then it has suffered catastrophic failure and probably not cost effective to repair.
Crankshaft damage is almost a certain and these parts are select fit ( no mix and match), so that lets out used components.
A teardown is mandatory.
 
#57 ·
Maybe mentioned already (I didn't read all 6 pages as I don't have this bike), but a mechanics stethoscope can work wonders in getting a noise localized... and pretty inexpensive...

Echos and conduction of noises can make it doing by ear near impossible...

Good luck...
 
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