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Fork Seal Change - Part 2

9K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  rileyyh 
#1 ·
I managed to take the forks off the bike, which made the job seem a lot less formidable. However, I was not able to simply use a strong twist (simulating a torque wrench) to break the lower fork bolt loose. So I opened the top cover, drained the oil, and removed the internal parts. I then attempted to use a broom handle to hold the damper rod, however the broom handle would just turn. We then placed the broom handle in a vise and the broom handle wouldn't turn. But when we tried to turn the bolt, it seemed like the damper rod was just turning on top of the broom handle.

It doesn't seem like the broom handle method works for the LTD Vulcan. With the tools available to me, it seems that buying the special Kawasaki tool to hold the damper rod is the best option.

Seems I'm so close to getting the job done but still so far. For now, I put the internal parts back in order and screwed the top on.
 
#2 ·
Let me know where you find the special tool. I'm going to do this job this weekend or sooner. I'm thinking of using a bolt backwards with some nuts one it taped to a socked.

But I also have a torque wrench so I'll try that first.
 
#3 ·
Only place I found was on ebay. The seller was Partzilla, so perhaps they also sell it from their site. Here's the link:

Kawasaki 57001 183 Handle Fork Adaptr E | eBay

They have 2 left. Since I don't have a lot of tools, it seemed simpler and about the same cost as contriving a solution. Head the end was just a 17mm hex or square, but the good thing is that the same tool seems to be used for various Kawasaki motorcycles, so it could easily be used for other bikes or resold.
 
#5 ·
rileyyh,

Do you have access to an air operated impact driver? Like the kind used in tire shops.

If you can locate one and use it this way:
Reassemble the fork complete with spring. This should hold enough resistance on the 'cylinder' to keep it from rotating.
Use the impact driver to loosen the retaining bolt a few rounds. Do Not remove the bolt with the fork assembled!
Remove the top cap of the fork but leave the spring in place. Use a small amount of pressure with your hand on the spring to keep the 'cylinder' from rotating while using your other hand to completely remove the retaining bolt.

This has worked for me many times in the past. The key to it is the air impact driver.

Good luck.
 
#6 ·
Alas, I don't have an air powered impact driver. So it seems the Kawasaki tool will be cheaper and easy to use with a vise holding the fork down.

Initially we were trying to break loose the bottom bolt while the fork was assembled but we couldn't get the bolt to budge. The small basic toolset I have doesn't offer much leverage.
 
#7 ·
I replaced the fork seals a few months back. To keep the inner cylinder from turning while I broke loose the lower fork bolt, I used a 1 1/4 inch diameter oak dowel that I had on hand (originally got it from Home Depot I think). I tapered the end of the dowel to six flat sides, using a wood rasp/file. Then I jammed that puppy into the inner rod, inserted an allen wrench/ hex wrench into the bolt, and used a 10mm (or was it a 9 or 11?) wrench to turn the hex wrench. That was the most difficult part of the whole job, that and trying to reverse the procedure when I put it back together.

BTW, I found a PVC sink strainer tailpiece in the plumbing department like this one

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/046224/046224004509lg.jpg

that worked beautifully to seat the new seals. It was under three bucks and when I cut a slit along the length, it fit nicely over the inner tube. I used two hose clamps to secure it in place and then I could slide the inner tube/rod up and down to drive the seal into place. The PVC tailpiece had a flange on one end that made it a perfect fit to drive the seal.

Make sure you either replace or recondition the copper washer that is with the lower bolt or you may get to disassemble it again when you see some fork oil seeping out the end. Don't ask me how I know this.
 
#8 ·
So, I have an air impact wrench, but i don't have a hex piece long enough to reach the end of the fork.

I was able to break loose the bottom bolt, but it just spins VERY difficultly. So much so that I thought I was stripping it (if you've ever stripped a bolt you'll understand what I mean - that feeling when it's hard to keep loosening/tightening but you keep turning). So, I assume this is because the inner cylinder was spinning.

I've pulled the forks off and I'm about to head to Home Depot to fabricate an attachment. Did someone say a 17 MM hex head bolt is what I need?
 
#11 ·
So, I got the damper rod out. It's NOT 17 mm either, but I jammed the 17 mm bolt inside it enough to get it loose with my impact wrench (I found my hex bit).

After removing the damper rod, the slot for the OEM tool is WAY down in there. No way you'd reach it with a socket. But you could secure something on the top.


15/16" head is too big on the top (which was a 3/4" bolt)


17 mm head is too big to fit further down (which was an M10 bolt)


The OEM tool goes ALL the way down there.


I took the damper rod to Home Depot and found out that a 3/8" bolt head will fit all the way down and lock in place, which is a 14 mm head. About 8 inches is the minimum length you'd need.

If fitting a bolt to the top of it, a 3/4" bolt head fits perfectly, which is about a 28 mm head.

Myself? I spent about $30-40 figuring this crap out and ended up removing them with my air impact wrench the whole time. Sigh.

Hope this helps someone else in the future.
 
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