I accessed the link, and it looks like a pretty straightforward, simple job. If I don't like the result, I hope it's just as easy to reverse the procedure and put the plates back in. But I won't do any of that until next Spring, so I"ve got lots of time.
I think you'll like it, but if not reversing should be easy. If you have a small magnet screw driver would help to hold the plate in place while setting the screw. But, I think you like it.
"Freedom is Loving what you do, and the ability to Pursue It!"
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Are the screws magnetic? On other non-bike projects I have been encountering aluminum or stainless screws, which is really irritating.
South of the Twin Cities.
Ride the river.
'07 900 Classic "turned LT"
Hard Krome 3" Big Straights (45-8025)
Speedo fixer in back (170)
Fuel Gauge resistor
'00 Vulcan 750 (SOLD)
'73 Honda CL350
I did this mod and like it so far. Better response and even better shifting. I can "feel" the engine better now.
Screws seems to be stainless....
This should be a sticky !!
I can't believe i didn't find this before...
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The Power Commander lets you add or subtract fuel in individual cells laid out as a grid from zero throttle to 100% throttle, from idle up to redline. It felt like the bike was flat when I would go to 50% throttle at a relatively low to mid RPM. Adding fuel to the cells in that area of the grid took the problem away. Since then I've added the Autotune module which automatically adds or subtracts fuel based on what the O2 sensor is telling it. The problem hasn't returned.
"I see," said the blind man. Thanx for the explanation. I will put off pulling the secondaries until I decide if I want to go to the expense of adding the Autotune. Might be worth it, though.
"Don't sweat the small stuff---it's all small stuff"