2009 Vulcan 900 Classic LT Fast IDLE - Page 5 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #41 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Big Toe View Post
I have adjusted my idle by turning the black knob on the front( or rt) side of the aircleaner housing
Not the same issue. The fast idle cam overrides the warm idle adjuster (black knob) during start up. In some cases the engine screams when it's just started. This is adjusted by means of the screw on the primary throttle shaft which is only accessable when the throttle is opened fully.
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post #42 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mtpocketsad View Post
How long do most of you let them warm up before riding? It would seem like a waste to let it warm up for 3+5 min. for a 2+3 min. ride to post office.
I wait until it goes to a slow iddle. No hurry. Ill start the bike a few minutes before Im ready to leave
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post #43 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mtpocketsad View Post
How long do most of you let them warm up before riding? It would seem like a waste to let it warm up for 3+5 min. for a 2+3 min. ride to post office.
I really don't think it will hurt anything to take off after giving it 30 seconds or so to warm up. BUT, the bike will operate more predictably once the fast idle is down.

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post #44 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 07:01 AM
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Wheres the pictures? Looking to do this on the weekend and quite frankly clueless on the position.
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post #45 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GWalkaa View Post
Wheres the pictures? Looking to do this on the weekend and quite frankly clueless on the position.
Open the throttle completely and the screw will be facing down as in the pic. I believe you tighten the screw to bring down the fast idle.
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post #46 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-08-2013, 05:31 PM
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3/4 of a turn clocwise takes the RPM to about 1600 when engine is cold. I will go 1/4 more to take it down to about 1300 to 1400 RPM. I'm happy with this
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post #47 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 02:00 PM
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I've never worried about this. Hard to believe there is 5 pages worth on the subject!

It's simple for me....


Roll bike into driveway, start the bike. Walk back into garage, begin to gear up for the ride. By time I'm done gearing up and ready to mount the bike it's idling at normal RPM.

Ride on!

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post #48 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Project84 View Post
I've never worried about this. Hard to believe there is 5 pages worth on the subject!

It's simple for me....


Roll bike into driveway, start the bike. Walk back into garage, begin to gear up for the ride. By time I'm done gearing up and ready to mount the bike it's idling at normal RPM.

Ride on!
I doubt there would even be one page if the dealer did their job when they prep the bike for the new customer.
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post #49 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 11:37 PM
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Fast IDLE?

No Dealer but the PVO showed me the fast idle. Said he normaly wait till slow idle to get in the WIND but it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and ride. So ditto, start the bike, gear up, mount at idle and ride!

Now I more interested know in how to validate the true idle is set to about 1000 rpms +/-50.. NEW THREAD
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post #50 of 64 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 05:00 PM
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High Idle Cure for Vulcan Classic 900

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sojourner View Post
Not the same issue. The fast idle cam overrides the warm idle adjuster (black knob) during start up. In some cases the engine screams when it's just started. This is adjusted by means of the screw on the primary throttle shaft which is only accessable when the throttle is opened fully.
Well I got tired of the long high idle and looked into it. I found the high idle cam and decided to modify it to fit my needs. Since I live in a warm climate I didn't need the lengthy warm up. The pictures reflect 1)the location of the high idle cam, 2) the cam off the bike before modification done, I took the cam off and held a fitted washer of the same size over it and marked the cam with a magic marker so that I know where the low idle mark is at any point. I also marked the high idle point before removing the cam (right upper corner of cam). 3) the cam after modified. I ground the cam off at different increments until i got the cold idle rpm I wanted making sure I didn't violate the black marked area. As long as you do it slowly you can't mess it up, and if you do, I can't imagine that cam would cost more than $1.00.

Hope this helps someone.
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