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Vulcan 900 Stator Information Thread

225K views 355 replies 90 participants last post by  ENRICO 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello!

While Kawasaki did a fantastic job building the Vulcan 900, arguably one of the best mid-sized cruisers out there, owners of the bike know that it has one rather annoying flaw; a seemingly defective stator design that simply does not last. Many stators will fail well before they should and need to be replaced. After some discussion, research, dealing with the issue myself, and mentoring from our Vulcan Forums stator expert, Sfair, I've compiled the following list of information regarding the stator, preventative maintenance, and tests to determine your problem.

1. What is the Stator?

The stator is part of the charging system on your Vulcan and is the part most likely to fail. Inside the left side of your engine is a magnetic rotor, which spins with the engine, and a stationary bundle of coils called the stator, which is bolted to the inside of the cover and, with the help of the rotor, generates electricity to keep your bikes electrical system running.


Pictured is a popular aftermarket stator replacement from Rick's Motorsports

2. What causes the stator to fail?

The most common stator failure is a 'short to ground' scenario in which something comes into contact with something it shouldn't, resulting in the stator eventually 'burning up. This is very easy to test for, we'll outline this test later on in this post. In the Vulcan 900, the most likely cause of this is a vibration that can cause coils to come loose, insulation to rub through, or even the stator wires themselves rubbing through and contacting the alternator cover (as was my case). The result is short to ground which can reduce the output of the stator, as well as damage the stator. Eventually, it will lead to a ruined stator, which often gives off the famous "Alien Noise" when the bike is idling.

3. How do I know if my stator has failed?

We will outline the tests a bit later but the most common symptoms of stator failure are surging lights, especially at idle, and a fairly high-pitched whining sound from the left side of the engine.

4. What does NOT cause the stator to fail?

There are a lot of theories regarding stator failure, some that I myself have perpetuated on these forums. But, in doing research on how the system works and talking with Sfair, I found a few of these to be myths.

I- Load. Excess load is not likely to cause the stator to fail. Our charging systems are three-phase AC system that is always at 100%. That little box below the radiator is called a Regulator/Rectifier. Part of its job is to take the excess power created by the stator and dump it on the ground. The stator is always outputting the maximum amount of power it can, you won't 'overload it and cause it to fail with driving lights, heated gear, espresso makers, etc. However, overloading can stress the stator and lead to potential problems down the road. You are more likely, however, to have a dead battery long before you have a failed stator. If you are not sure if you have your charging system overloaded, then follow these steps from Sfair:
"
Say you installed a light bar and you want to check that your charging system can handle it:

1. Run the engine up to the speed that it normally turns at 30mph, 2500??? Use your ear as a guess if you have no tach.
2. Take a voltage reading across the battery.
3. Turn on the light bar and take another reading.
4. If the output drops more than a few tenths of a volt, then the alternator may not keep up under normal driving conditions. If it drops to 12v, then you have problems.
"
You can, however, use more energy than the charging system is producing, resulting in a dead battery. You could also overheat wires, blow fuses, or damage switches. So, it's a good idea to stay within Kawasaki's recommended 70w accessory maximum, and to use relays, extra wiring, additional fuses, et cetera when installing accessories. However, once again, too many accessories will not damage your stator.

II- Batteries. A discharged battery, or worn-out battery, can potentially damage components in your bike's electrical system and create a significant draw on your charging system. Kawasaki recommends not 'jumping' your bike or driving it with a discharged battery. However, once again, a discharged battery, though something you shouldn't necessarily do, is not going to damage your stator.

III- Water. This is a common one and one I was convinced of (and might still be). The idea is that water getting into the connectors on the regulator plug in the front of the bike burns up the stator. According to Fair, heat and energy passing through the plug would evaporate any water that would actually create a short-to-ground condition, so quickly that it wouldn't cause any damage. To be honest, I still take precautions to keep water out of my regulator plug (can't hurt right?) But, according to Sfari, it's not likely that water in the regulator plug causes stator failure.

So, in conclusion, our stators fail because of vibration and wear on the physical stator over time resulting in a short. There may be a fault somewhere that gets damaged easily, or it might just not be well-built. Whatever the case, the damage to the stator happens inside the engine, not outside the bike or by means of anything plugged into it!

5. How do you replace the stator?

It's not too bad, actually, but it does take some time. You will need;

1 New Stator (I recommend Rick's Motorsports Stators. They are cheaper, and seem to last longer than OEM)

1 new Alternator Cover gasket (Order online or through your dealer, not usually carried in stock anywhere)

Silicone Spray to spray the gasket with before re-assembling the bike

Willingness to spend a few hours working on the bike and doing the tests outlined in this thread in order to be certain you won't deal with the same problem within a week!

You'll also need a handful of tools. There are threads on how to replace it and the Kawasaki service manual outlines the job nicely. I will work on getting a write-up on how to do it in more detail but I will quickly outline how I did it (AS A QUICK OUTLINE to see if it's a job you're willing to undertake. PLEASE don't print this out and take it to your garage! I'm not responsible when you break something!)

0. Drain the engine oil completely

1. Remove the floorboard and shifter

2. Remove the chrome cover on the left side

3. Remove the pulley cover (closer to the rear wheel) and the alternator cover (closer to the front wheel). The alternator cover will drip some oil. Also, know that the stator is being held on by the rotor, there is basically a magnet holding it on. So, even though you'll get all of the bolts off of it, it will fight you coming off. It's normal, nothings caught, just pull it out as straight as you can, and wobble it back and forth a bit. It'll pop off.

4. Remove the three bolts holding the stator in, remove the metal plate holding the wires away from the rotor, pop off the grommets, and cut the three white wires.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. I found it easier to mount the stator, run the wires under the plate, and then slide the cover back onto the bike with a couple of bolts in to keep it secure. Then, I soldered the wires back together, finished assembling the cover, put the pulley cover back on, the chrome cover back on, and make sure the drain plug and oil filter are in tight. Refill with oil and go. (But don't assemble it all until you finish with the tests outlined below!)
 
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#2 · (Edited)
6. How do you test for Stator and Reg/Rect. Failures?

To quote Sfair, the stator failures are a vicious cycle. Often, a bad stator will take out the Regulator/Rectifier, which, in turn, will eat up the new stator. Both should be tested before firing up the bike. Also, if you're not sure WHAT is failing on your bike, the following tests will get you squared away.

Test 1 - Stator Voltage

Using a good quality multi-meter, set to AC Volts, (see the meters owners manual for proper placement of the leads and settings to test for AC volts. Improperly setup you WILL damage your meter with this test. AC volts. Not DC!)

Locate the regulator plug located at the front of the bike. Unplug it. Note the three white wires coming to the plug. Label them A, B, and C. Start the bike. (The regulator does not need to be plugged in for the bike to run)

Your meter should have a red and black probe. With the bike idling, touch the red probe to wire "A", the black probe to wire "B", and note the readings.

Do the same for wires "B" to "C"
Finally, "A" and "C". Once you have three readings, have someone rev the bike (or adjust the idle) to around 3,000 rpms. Repeat this test and note the readings.

On my bike, the readings at idle are 36v, and the readings at 3,000rpms are 56v. I was using a high-end meter I borrowed, some meters may be less accurate, and voltages may be slightly different than mine. If yours are alot different, then your stator is not outputting correctly. If you're not sure, be sure to ask in the forums.

If these voltages are not correct, replace the stator. If they are, continue on to test 2:

Test 2 - Short to Ground
For this test, an analog meter is best. Set it to ohms,

Short to ground is the most common stator failure, and it's easy to test for.

First, disconnect the positive battery cable. (Important! You could damage your meter if you don't)

Second, locate the plug under the seat near the battery that contains four wires (black, brown, red and white). Unplug it. This will prevent a false reading.

Next, short out your meter (set to ohms, touch the leads together) and be sure that it reads 0ohms when shorted. Adjust if necessary. Then, attach a lead to the black (negative) battery cable, then touch a lead to each of the three white stator wires, record the readings.

If you are shorted to ground, you'll get a reading expressed in ohms. Any reading other than infinite is bad (refer to your meters owners manual to learn how infinite is expressed. On an analog meter, the needle will not move), and the stator should be inspected or replaced. The stator could still be good in this case (if the voltages are good) and you caught it early, but it is definitely shorted. Refer to the service manual for removing the stator, and check for worn insulation, rubbed wires, or another short condition.

Test 3 - Regulator Rectifier Test PERFORM THIS TEST BEFORE RUNNING A BIKE AFTER STATOR REPLACEMENT!

This test is very important. If you've just replaced your stator, perform this test next, to make sure that it's safe to start the bike. Otherwise, your new stator may fail.

First, remove the regulator/rectifier from the bike, Noting the red, black, and white wire positions. On mine, I used a pencil and marked "R, B, W1, W2, W3" above each location a wire would be plugged into.

Set your regulator down and grab out your trusty meter, once again set to ohms. Zero the meter. Set to X1K resistance if the option is available to you.

Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 1
Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 2
Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 3
Note the readings.

Repeat the tests, this time reversing the probes (Red to black, black to white)
Repeat the tests one more time, but this time, in places where you tested using the black pin you noted, use the red. You should have 12 readings noted.

If your rectifier is working properly, you are looking for low resistance in one direction, and infinite resistance in the opposite direction.

If you are unsure whether or not your regulator/rectifier is behaving as it should, ask! Running the bike with a bad reg/rect unit WILL damage the new Stator, better off to just not ride for an afternoon and ask the question before starting the engine. Do not start the engine or run the bike if either the stator or reg/rect has failed or is questionable. Coincidentally, running the bike with a bad stator can cause the reg/rect unit to fail. If you believe your stator is failing, ride it home, shut it down, and perform the tests. Do not ride until the offending parts have been replaced!

If you get the correct readings, re-check the stator for a short-to-ground, plug the regulator back in, and start the bike. Once the bike is running, switch your meter to DC Volts, and rev the bike. Between idle and 5k rpms, you should have readings around the 14v mark the entire time. Mine are between 13.6-14.1. It should never be well below 13v (like 12.3 or something like that), and should not exceed 15v. If it does, your regulator/rectifier needs to be replaced (The 'regulator' part is not functioning correctly). Shut the bike off, and do not run the engine until the regulator/rectifier is replaced.

Hope this can be of some help! Just know that this is 99% from Sfair, be sure to give him a big THANK YOU for all the help he does in this forum and the information he gave for us here!

Stator Removal Video:

Happened upon this YouTube video which details the removal of the OEM Stator quite well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1nSvWdnN3k
 
#27 ·
Test 2 - Short to Ground
For this test, an analog meter is best. Set it to ohms,

Short to ground is the most common stator failure, and it's easy to test for.

First, disconnect the positive battery cable. (Important! You could damage your meter if you don't)

Second, locate the plug under the seat near the battery that contains four wires (black, brown, red and white). Unplug it. This will prevent a false reading.

Next, short out your meter (set to ohms, touch the leads together) and be sure that it reads 0ohms when shorted. Adjust if necessary. Then, attach a lead to the black (negative) battery cable, then touch a lead to each of the three white stator wires, record the readings.

how off can the reading be off by? i did the test in the morning and didnt read this thread till later today.
 
#3 ·
I'd like to sticky this thread, but I want Sfair's approval first. I'd also like any comments/questions so we can get it cleaned up before stickied!
 
#4 ·
Just one correction. It would be possible to overload the stator with too many accessories which "may" cause some issues, but you probably would end up with a dead battery first.
Say you installed a light bar and you want to check that your charging system can handle it:

1. Run engine up the the speed that it normally turns at 30mph, 2500??? Use your ear as a guess if you have no tach.
2. Take a voltage reading across the battery.
3. Turn on the light bar and take another reading.
4. If the output drops more than a few tenths of a volt, then the alternator may not keep up under normal driving conditions. If it drops to 12v, then you have problems.
 
#8 ·
You'll note that I did, but even though that's a popular 'reason' if you will, Sfair has told me he doesn't think that's a likely situation. He explained it in another thread. When it comes to this stuff, he is the absolute authority around here. As I understand it he works or has worked on equipment like that for a living and REALLY knows his stuff. So, if he says the water and dirt doesn't cause the stator failures, I believe him.

That said, I do think there is a correlation between the instances of inclement weather riding and stator failure, and I don't believe in coincedences, BUT, I'm inclined to believe whatever Sfair says.
 
#9 ·
Thread has been stucked!

Sfair, I included an edit based on what you said regarding load. I'll leave this open for discussions regarding the stator. May include some notable comments in the second post, so just consider this your 'be warned' that after this post I may take something you say and copy and paste it into my second post there, if it adds value to the write-up (so don't sue me haha)
 
#22 ·
I would like to say thank you for the heads up. So far, Knock on wood, I haven't had any problems. I have a 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. I have almost 6000 miles on her.

Robert aka Unk.
This is great news, too! I'm riding a 2009 and have just now put on 3K miles. In fact, I'm on my way to have the oil changed and maintenance done... :)

I do have a question now... since we're here: Standard Oil or Synthetic? My good friend only uses synthetic... but the cost! I don't mind spending the money if it's worth it. Thoughts?

Flo
 
#20 ·
Has anybody tried/found a good place for relocating the regulator for prevention of this water buildup? I haven't thought about it, but this thread will definitely make me look.
 
#24 ·
A major problem is heat. That's why on most bikes, regardless of make or even type, the regulator/rectifier is in that spot. I think the better solution is to take precautions to waterproof the connector. Anywhere you put it where it would get less water, would cause it to overheat. Keep the connector clean and dry and you shouldn't have any problems.

I wrapped electrical tape from the insulation to the plug, and used di electric grease in the plug to keep it dry. As part of my regular maintenance when I change the oil, I'm going to pull, clean, and re-grease that plug.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Great to see this as a Sticky !

I wanted to add a link to the Stator List thread, meant for those that had the problem.

Please note that as of this writing, there have been 6308 view of the thread. Since my last posted update on 10-3-11, there are a few added. For a total of 19 stators lost. One guy on his third.

While it is true that this math is not conclusive, it is indicative. In that it appears this is more of a luck of the draw problem, rather than an all incompassing flaw.

This is not to diminish the anguish and cost to those that had the problem.

I will say that my 900 came with dielectric on the connection, and I have given this matter attention/addition each time I changed the oil.

My '08 900 has 17,000 miles, and has been in the rain. A couple that I had to stop and sit on my seat in torentental down pours.

I rode with a Cobra Light bar on full time during the day. Which blew fuses twice due to the crappy switch set-up getting wet. Finnally coated back of switch. Original battery.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12052

Hopefully, Sfair and Sojourner accept my thanks. As well as others. The input posted on these forums is the greatest tool in our tool box!

As my interests have moved towards interstate travel, I have sold my 900, and purchased a 1600 Nomad. I wish my budget would have allowed me to keep it. But, I hope to get another down the line, as the 900 is an awesome bike !

To those thinking about purchasing a 900, I say do it. IF, and that's a real big IF - IMHO - you need to replace your stator, it's usually been done for reasonable $. As in not that bad an expense for MC maintainence.

Ride Safe !
 
#26 ·
It's important to remember that correlation does not always mean causation. What you did there would be called a correlation case study, something that a researcher could use to give them an idea what to look for in actual experimental research. As stated before, the stator failures appear to be completely mechanical, i.e., physically wearing through and shorting.

A great example of why correlational evidence is no good is the 'back pressure creates torque' myth. Lots of people, in attempting to prove this myth, have compared smaller pipes to bigger pipes on a dyno. With smaller pipes they see a rise in torque in the low end. They conclude, therefore, that back pressure creates torque. Research is alot more complicated then that.

As it turns out, there's a scavenging effect that occurs with small diameter pipes. As exhaust gases drag against the walls of a small diameter pipe (kinda like the wind drag on you and your bike at high speeds). What happens is, because the engine is 'pulsing' the exhaust flow at low RPM's, the drag on the pipes creates a suction effect that actually pulls exhaust through the valves, it actually creates a bit of a vacuum. It's not back pressure, in fact, it's the complete opposite! Small diameter pipes, at low RPM's, because of this phenomenon, REDUCE back pressure and increase flow. More flow = more fuel, more fuel = more power. The catch is, at higher RPM's the pulsing becomes more like a constant flow, back-pressure builds, and power is lost. So the real way to gain power with exhaust is to make it as free flowing and least-restrictive as possible, but use a small diameter pipe for low-end torque, or a larger diameter pipe (which will lose the scavenging effect but will not create back-pressure at high RPM's) for top end horsepower.

An EXPERIMENTAL research, as opposed to a correlational research method for this myth would be to take a car and weld a restrictor plate with varying diameter holes in it directly to the exhaust manifold. You'll find that with smaller holes (which aren't long enough to scavenge) this more back pressure, you have reduced power. This has been done as a matter of fact, with torque and horsepower decreasing as back-pressure increases.

So anyway, my point being, that thread has good information, but it's correlational and therefore not definitive. Looking through pictures of burned up stators I keep seeing worn spots right around the scorch marks. I don't think water, batteries, load, or any of those conditions are anything other than coincidence, I think these are physical, mechanical failures that lead to a short to ground and then a total failure.

Problem is, there really isn't a way to do real experimental research with this issue. But we still have to be careful about the correlations we find, and do some research to determine if those could even cause an issue. Like the load, I've heard all over this forum that over-loading kills the stator. After talking to Sfair, and doing some research on how AC Stators work (finding out that they are ALWAYS at 100% for example) I found out that it's virtually impossible for load to take out a stator, and you would have a dead battery long before your stator broke a sweat.
 
#29 ·
I guess a simple test of whether a stator can live for long pumping out full current all the time would be two fold. The first would be using a clamp-on ammeter, measure the current on any, or all, of the three white wires going to the regulator/rectifier. The battery would need to be fully charged and the engine revs up to cruising speed so you know the full potential of the stator is discharging to the R/R. The second test is disconnecting the R/R and shorting out the three white wires to each other and repeating the test. If sfair is correct, the current readings from both tests should be the same. If in fact it is, then this proves without a doubt the stator is designed to discharge at full current 100% of the time. If the current flow during the second test is significantly higher, or there are other noticeable abnormalities, then the theory of dirty water, or a failing battery causing an increase in current flow that damages the stator windings is still on the table.
 
#30 ·
1. If it was a failing battery, then all three fields would show signs of overheating. Get no indication of this.
2. If it was water, etc. then wherever the water was the culpret, then the plug should show signs of burning, discoloration, etc from the high current. Usually no signs of this.
3. If the short was external to the stator as in number 2, the entire field would show burned windings, not just one end of it.
I am pretty sure you know that the current readings would not be the same for the proposed tests. The entire power output of the stator would be dropped across Rint. instead of both Rint and Rload. But then, again, all three windings would fry instead of just one section of the one stator winding. Looking at the diagram, note that if one winding shorts to ground, there is a return path through the one of the reg/rect diodes and that is why the winding burns and that is why the reg/rect MUST be checked whenever the stator is replaced because the high current through that diode can cause it to short or go open.
 
#31 ·
As an add, if there is a heavy load on the charging system, that just means that there is less current shunted to ground at that particular moment. If the load is so heavy, system voltage drops and soon your battery is dead.
On my 1500 with two stators and reg/rect, at idle, the reg. fight each other (dumb system) with one always shuting all stator output. Instead of loaded AC stator output being 12-13v AC, it drops to 3v AC and stays there. The load is so great that it slows the engine down...the engine picks up if I unplug the shunted stator.
 
#32 ·
Question about possible stator failure.
My '06 900 classic has 15K plus on it now. I had added early on an indicator light that indicates charging discharging or neutral charging (demand at or about equal to output, I guess). I have noticed over the past year at intermittent times and not on every ride that the indicator light at times will show neutral or discharging when at speed.
Would this indicate potential stator failure? If so should I replace now rather than wait?
Thanks.
Richard S
 
#33 ·
Any accessories? At what speed/gear?

Reason I ask is, I have a 100 watt headlight and a stereo, which drains some juice. At lower RPM's, it can be in a neutral state when the cooling fan kicks on (especially when it first kicks on), that pretty much maxes it out there.

If it happens at 70 in 5th gear, that could be more of an issue.

The easiest way to determine stator failure is to determine a short to ground (most common failure). If it's intermittent, then the short-to-ground is probably intermittent. However, if you get home an notice its still not charging well, then you might follow the instructions above to do a short to ground test.

Mine had about 15k when the OEM stator bit the dust. At the time, no accesories, but a lot of sustained higher speeds which is an early stator killer (constant speed vibrations causing wear on the stator insulation).

When you replace it, I recommend Ricks. They have a reputation for lasting much longer than OEM. Can't comment on that as mine only has about 5k on it, but it definitely looked like it had a thicker, harder, more durable insultion. My OEM stator had a tiny, tiny hole worn in the insulation deep inside the stator, which had evidence of arcing- likely the cause of failure (arcing across the rotor, not allowing juice to flow to the regulator!)
 
#34 ·
Thanks so much for the response.
I have had no accessories on when this occurred. I have driving lights I use a night to see help see Bambis but all my occurrences have been in the day time.
It has happened at all speeds but mostly in 5th at highway speeds, 55-70.
I do have a headlight modulator and the indicator light when this occurs changes in synch with the modulator so that clues me that the bike was fluctuating between discharging and neutral and likely was not charging at that time.
The situation has been very intermittent. Just a couple of times this year that I have noticed.
I take it the short to ground has to be constant or actively taking place for the described tests to be beneficial.
I am willing to go ahead and replace the stator but would like to be at least 90% sure that is what it is before doing that. I had an older Voyager (89)that gave up an alternator stranding me 200 miles from home and dealership there charged me 800 dollars for a replacement and it took them 30 days to get it fixed. I don't care to have that situation again.
I do thank you for your recommendation for Ricks Motorsports.
 
#35 ·
Usually, there is warning with these 900's. In other words, it's not common that it leaves someone stranded unless they purely neglected it.

Can you disable or remove the modulator for a short while? Typically, when the stator is damaged (meaning it's been shorted long enough to become damaged) the headlights will surge at idle (because stator output is fluctuating). It's possible this is already happening, but it's being masked by your modulator!

It does sound like your in the beginning stages of failure, so yes, the test would likely render a 'false positive', revealing no short because, at the moment of testing, there might not be!

In my humble opinion, it's not a bad idea to 'upgrade' the stator to an aftermarket ricks at the first sign of failure.

Here's your supply list:

1 Ricks Stator
1 Replacement Alternator Cover Gasket
1 Can of spray silicon (to use on the gasket seal to help seal it)
Solder
Heat shrink tubing


Some people will tell you to remove the original plug, and somehow (?) splice in the Rick's wires into that plug. To me, that's a tremendous amount of extra work [requires the removal of the front pulley which requires the removal of the rear wheel, among other things... it's a pain, that's how I did it, and in the end I still had to cut and splice wires, I wasted a ton of time following 'the book'], make that same splice sooner and you can do it quicker. Drain the oil, Yank the alternator cover (it will feel like it's caught even when all the bolts are out, just wiggle back and forth and pull it out, the rotor is a big magnet, it's holding it in), cut the wires for the factory stator after they come out of the cover. Remove the factory boot holding the factory stator wires. Install the rick's stator (three screws, pretty easy), use the included boot along with some sealant (I just sprayed a little silicone, worked for me), then cut, strip and solder the wires to where you cut the old stator off. Doesn't matter which, three white wires to three white wires order is not important. Make sure each one is individually heat-shrinked, then heat shrink or tape them together (Again, tape/heat shrink each individual wire well, those wires shorting has the same effect as the stator shorting). Replace gasket and re-install cover, fill with oil, and keep on' riding!

It's really easy, it just looks intimidating. I'm not a mechanic, but I did it. If you decide to go ahead and do it, feel free to PM me if you start having trouble and I'll do the best I can.

Alternatively you can take it to a dealer or your favorite wrench, but it won't be cheap. Even though it's not incredibly technical, or super difficult, it does take a bit of time, and they charge by the hour!

Oh, and one last bit of advice, get a service manual, and torque EVERYTHING correctly. From the screws holding the stator, to the bolts holding the alternator cover. They are easy to shear/break, but if not tight enough, can cause things to vibrate loose or leak. Take care to torque every single bolt screw and nut you remove in this process back to spec. Chances are you know SOMEONE who can let you borrow an inch-pound torque wrench (I did!) It's not a bad tool to have in your toolbox if you have to buy one.
 
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#36 · (Edited)
The type of failure that most experience probably starts as an intermittent and could go undetected for quite a while. Operation at high vibration speeds (highway) might show it up more often before it goes solid.
I am not a fellow for guesswork, but in your case, I do not think that doing a preemptive strike on that stator would be a waste of time and money. It is a known tender spot on the 900's.
Also, depending on the failure, it can take out the reg/rect and relay box, too, just adding to the repair cost.
The cost of a stator would certainly be less than a tow from 200 miles away!
 
#37 ·
Hi Gang,
Great stuff on the stator problem. I just read the thread cause mine just went. :-(
My 06 Vulcan 900 has 37,345 miles and this is the FIRST problem I've ever had. I run it hard, but service it regularly. Before the stator went, I was hearing an "alien noise." The noise was intermitent and I heard it at low speed. I have a 50w Kuryakin sound system mounted on the handlebars, but they have been there for 3 years without any trouble. Now, my mechanic told me that the new stator, plugs, labor etc would cost $600. He explained that there was a lot of labor and he didn't recommend an after market stator. He said that the after market piece didn't come with plugs and that they would have to be purchased seperately and that would increase the price. Am I being robbed or does it sound normal?
 
#40 ·
I think my stator is going out on my 900 custom it's only 4 months old with 1400 miles, but was out it yesturday and started hear a whinning noise and the more I rode the loader it got. At first I thought it was a front whell bearing but after reading this I think it is the stator. It still under warranty so I will get it to the dealer.
 
#42 ·
Well after reading this who thread I beleive my stator may be going out. I purchased the bike yesterday and noticed it "whining" some today. I thought it was the gears but this sounds more like it. Ill test it next chance I get. Is it ok to drive until I can get it replaced if it is indeed going out?
 
#43 ·
Is the whine just a whine when your in gear, moving, or at idle stopped?

The stator whine occurs during lower RPMs, doesn't change at all in gear, in different gears, with the clutch pulled in, etc.

There is a whine that normally occurs from the engine and tranny. It's just a noisy motor. But the stator whine is kind of a "space ship" sound and it occurs from the engine alone, changes in pitch in volume with RPMs, and does not change at all with the clutch or in different gears (aside from the change from changing RPMs).

Do the tests outlined above to determine if the stator is the issue. If it is, don't ride it. A bad stator can, potentially, damage other components including the regulator/rectifier. Some have ridden on a failing stator for months with no adverse effect, just like some have ridden on a tire with the wear bars sticking out of the rubber without a blowout! It's not advisable.

I know this is personal and it's up to you, but I'm not sure I would accept purchasing a bike with a failed stator if that wasn't part of the deal. I think I would ask for a refund if it's a private seller, or ask that it be fixed if it's a dealer. It wouldn't bother me enough to pursue it if the private seller refused, but, unless it was understood to be part of the deal and the cost reflected it, it's not fair to ask you to pay full price for a bike with a component failing. I mean, that's up to you of course. But if it was from a dealer, I would most definitely pursue it.

It's about a $1,000 job at the dealer, so in my mind I would only buy a bike with a failing stator if it was $1,000 less than it's market vaue. It's about a $250ish (depends on the cost of the oil you buy, since the repair constitutes an oil change, wouldn't recommend pouring the oil back in once you drain it. I replaced my oil filter too when I did mine because I was 'close enough' to an oil change anyway) if you go aftermarket. A bit more if you go with an OEM replacement. That, on top of 3 hours or so (depends on who you are. A well equipped mechanic could bang it out in an hour, easy. Having done it twice since I screwed something up the first time, I could do it in an hour. But the first time involves a lot of double checking, re reading, and going slow)

Again, thought make sure that this whine IS the stator, and not just the normal engine/tranny noise us 900 owners so affectionately enjoy.
 
#45 ·
Its a whine that is noticible right when I crank it. You can hear it in neutral and it does rise and lower with the rpms. A "space ship" sound would probaly be best to describe it lol. Its not "real" loud but it is noticable. I will preform the steps tomorrow to test it if I can figure out how to work the meter. I cranked it in the parking lot at work tonight before riding it home and watched to see if the head light showed any sign of power lose but its stayed bright at idle and same under load so I dont know if that says anything.

Question: If the whine is actually the stator like suspected, is there any way to save it? Or is it one of those things that when the start to die theres no going back? Reason I ask is because its seems to work enough to keep the bike charged and all the lights running fine.


As far as getting a refund thats not a big problem. I probally could but I didnt get it for a bad price at all. And after fixing my brute force for seems like 2 years strait (always something breaking on it :D), I will just fix whatever myself. I dont like stealerships to work on anything I own.
 
#47 ·
Sounds like a stator!

That sound is the casings of the stator expanding and cracking under heat and rubbing against the rotor. Perhaps even some other odd noises as it fails.

The stator is just starting to go. It might pass those tests, it might not. If the headlit is not dimming, then I'd bet money you are getting the correct voltages. You may or may not get the resistance issue when you test that. Depends on where the fault is and what the orientation of the stator is!

A positive on any of those tests confirms stator failure. Not getting a positive on all of those tests does not, however, confirm its okay. Yours is toast. It'll continue to get worse. It could fail completely 5 miles from now, or it could last you a year. Or, it could short out and take components with it! If it were my bike, I'd be getting online and ordering me a ricks motorsports stator, a new alternator cover gasket, and going to my favorite local auto parts shop and getting some oil for my bike, and a filter too if the oil change wasn't done very recently. Also throw into your shopping basket a service manual. Cheapest route is either a used paper one on eBay, or you can get the electronic version on Kawasaki.com (Kawasaki has told us at these forums directly that the only legal place for the service manual is kawasaki.com, so it would be ill advised to purchase or source that service manual anywhere else, for the electronic version that is)

Feel free to PM me if you have questions or need help. I've done it twice now, I think I've got it down! Hehe. It's an easy project if you take it slow and take it step by step, it's just a little time consuming. Make SURE to have an inch pound torque wrench (this is not good guessing territory. Too loose and it'll leak, and it's very easy to over tighten and break or strip bolts in this engine!), and have plenty of small trays or dishes to sort the various sizes of bolts and screws. As you take the bolts out of the alternator cover, you'll notice there are two lengths. Take note of which holes correspond to the longer bolts. Save you a bit of time over trying to just remember. If for some reason you do lose track, then just use the long ones first. They won't go all the way in except in the holes they belong!
 
#158 ·
Hi Guys,
I just completed an 1800km ride,But after 900km as I was just 10 minutes into my ride home,I had the speedometer needle drop,Then the turn signals and then the loss of power.900km from home in a strange city.
I got towed to a Kawasaki dealer and as I suspected. The stator had died. The dealer couldn't get a new stator,So he had my old stator rewound. 3 days later and just over $400. Iwas back on the road.
I started to travel home 200km in the rain last night with no issues.Then I got a room to wait out the rain.
This morning when I first started the bike. After a couple of seconds,I can hear a scratching sound from the area of the stator. I turned the bike off and restarted it and the noise was still there until I rode off down the highway expexting the bike to leave me stranded at any time.
I didn't hear the noise at all after starting to ride and I rode the bike 750km today without any problems beside that noise.
I can only guess it was something touching while the motor is cold and clearances change with heat.:confused:
Because the noise was gone when running at operating temperature,I rode all day only stopping for refueling and then back on the road again.
Just now while at home and the motor is cooling, I started the bike and the scratchy noise is back again.
I have not checked the stator,But the battery voltage goes to 14.5volts and then the noise comes. If I hit the high beam switch,The noise pauses for a split second.
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards Jason :D
 
#48 ·
Romans

Thanks for all the trouble you took in compiling this thread!
Great job!

I am still a bit confused about this stator failure, as it does not seem to follow any pattern, it can break at only a few 1000k or 40000k...My questions are:
Is it possible that it will not fail at all?
or is it bound to fail on every 900 in time?

Due to one very bad experience with a bike I used to own, I am a bit paranoid every time a hear a new sound from my 900 that wasn't there before, and last night commuting back home, suddenly a new whining sound started, I automatically thought "that's it, my turn with the stator" the sound is very soft and does not increase with rpms, it actually sounds like the fan getting on (but it is not) my little volmeter gadget still shows a green charging light above 1200rpms, so I don't know what to think, I haven't done the tests you explain higher up in this thread as I had no time yet, I will, if the stator voltage and short to ground tests come up ok, can I assume safely that the noise is something else?
Thanks
Gilles
 
#49 ·
Yup if the stator checks are OK then you are OK.

The stator fails, mostly, from physical wear due to vibration, rubbing, etc.

Generally, if you spend more time riding at lower speeds, it will probably last longer. Lots of highway (constant speed, basically) riding, can increase the wear on the stator. But, that's all a theory.

It CAN last forever, sure. But don't bet on it. When people ask me if they should buy a Vulcan 900, I tell them they are going to have to replace a stator at some point if they ride it alot. (I also feel like it's still well worth it! Now that I've done the job it's not hard at all, really easy in fact, and not too expensive. Cheaper than a lot of other 'common issues' on other bikes.

The thing is, stators fail. If you look at any high mileage bike, it's probably had multiple stator replacements. The 'million mile harley' had a new one every 50k or so, for a million miles.

It's just not a greatly reliable design, an inboard stator mounted inside a hot and vibrating engine. But I'm not sure an externally mounted alternator could work!
 
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