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Kawasaki 16097-0008 Oil Filter Disection

28K views 78 replies 18 participants last post by  colemantle 
#1 ·
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#4 ·
Many other folks have and I have seen the results. The Fram PH6017A is a cross to the Kaw OEM filter and its internals are sub-par compared to the OEM filter and way sub-par compared to Aftermarket Automotive filters. I have previously used Purolator PL14610 & PL14612 filters in place of the Kaw OEM filter. My current favorite now is the Purolator PL14459 filter. The spec picture, shows them in yellow. The new ones on the shelf now are blue in color.
 

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#7 ·
Are all the Frams subpar? I got one of the higher dollar Frams, not the cheapo one.
I am only aware of the Fram PH6017A motorcycle specific filter being a cross for the Kaw OEM filter. On the automotive front, the Fram Automotive filters have proven to be below average in that arena as well. So, that is why I suppose I, and others, have not tried to find a Fram alternative to any other filters.

Once you are done with the hi-dollar Fram, hack it up and let us know what you find.
 
#8 ·
The PL14459 has a 3psi lower max bypass pressure that is more in line with Kawasaki, Yamaha, & Honda OEM filters. The PL14459 is a short fat filter. It is about the same height as the PL14612 but 1/2" greater in diameter for its entire length. This means that it will hold about the same amount or greater of oil than the long skinny PL14610. Being this physical size means it more easily fits more bikes and it is easier to grip with your hands when installing/removing.
 

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#11 ·
The K&N filter is of better construction than most motorcycle oil filters. K&N website lists the drainback valve as being made of Nitrile. Silicone is top of the line. K&N does not list a bypass pressure specification so it is hard to compare data on these filters against other manufacturers who do release data. The K&N filter is not advertised as being made in the USA. The K&N is a "contract" made filter. At last sourcing the KN303 was manufactured by Champion. This is no big deal as the Kaw OEM filter is also a "contract" made filter manufactured by Denso. At $15.00 per filter, it is up to you to decide if it is worth that to you. One could say that it only costs $1.00 more than an OEM filter available from my dealer and the K&N is of notably better construction for the data that is released for it. On the other hand, if Aftermarket Automotive filters are available to you in a convenient manner at a store nearer you, for a lower price, and those filters are made in the USA, then their use may well be considered an advantage to you.
The K&N nut on top does have its advantages and if that makes life easier then it is well worth the price. So far, I have never needed a nut on top of a filter to get the filter off even when I am removing a filter that was put on by a ham-fisted clod with an impact wrench. I have many oil filter caps, wrenches, and bands so a nut on top of a filter is not a bonus point for me.
 
#22 ·
I'll have to go to Wally World and check these out as I have heard a lot about them over the years. They haven't had any at mine for a long while now, and I gave up on checking for them about 2 years ago. I'll look again next time I'm there.
 
#14 ·
Great thread. Du-Ron, after reading your post I picked up a couple of the Purolator PL14459 filters at Advance Auto for $5.00 each. Since my stator just failed last week, changing out the oil and filter will be needed anyway once that repair is complete. The filter looks to be a great replacement for oem. The two I picked up were yellow, ftr.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I cut open a Kawasaki OEM 16097-0008 oil filter and got different results. I didn't have any light pass through the bypass valve and couldn't see any indication where the bypass valve would not seal properly. Even if the bypass valve spring was defective and only applied half spring tension, no light can pass through it. However, I did have light pass through the filter element, but that is normal. I had to be very careful where I positioned the light because the bypass valve is small and getting the position wrong would point the light at the filter element where light can shine through. The body of the bypass valve fit snug against the filter element and appeared to be normal. There were no indications at all that the filter would not perform as it should.

I think you need more sample filters to properly evaluate a filter brand. I also think the filters should still be within their service life.

The Kawasaki OEM 16097-0008 oil filter I cut open is off a 2012 900 Classic LT. The bike has a little under 6000 miles. I don't know the service history of the motorcycle or how long the filter has been used. I just changed it out and replaced it with a FRAM PH6017A.
 
#26 ·
I wouldn't even bother commenting about another persons opinion or oil filter preference, accept for this thread being so misleading. Anyone who doubts what I said about epoxy sitting between the bypass valve and paper filter element and allowing light to shine through can cut open the Kawasaki OEM oil filter and look for themselves. There is no space between the bypass valve and paper filter element where oil can escape and avoid passing through the paper filter element.

As far as you wanting to change the topic and attack me for choosing to use a FRAM PH6017A oil filter, these filters have a 95% efficiency rating using ISO 4548-12 test method, so I have no problem using this filter for 2 or 3 thousand miles even if the PH6017A uses paper end caps. Is it my first filter choice? No! Am I recommending others to use FRAM? No! Use whatever filter you want.
 

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#31 · (Edited)
If you have to spend a dollar, then don't you want the most for that dollar. Shown below is an old filter cutup I did a while back. The KAW OEM 16097-0008 crosses to a Yamaha 5GH-13440-30 (Denso 115000-5391) and Yamaha 5GH-13440-00 (Denso 115010-5390) and a Purolator L14612.

The Yamaha 5GH-13440-00 is the worst of the lot with no bypass valve at all but comes factory on many Yamaha's that require a bypass valve according to spec.

A Fram was not included here as you can see the results of their dissection almost anywhere.

Looking below and from posts above, do you want to pay $14 for KAW OEM filter, or $15 for either Yamaha OEM filter, or $9.00 for a Fram, or $6.00 for the L14612 (and others similar to it) that has the bonus point of being made in the USA?
 

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#29 ·
I recently switched from that nasty motorcycle-specific synthetic stuff and am now using canola oil exclusively. So far, no ill effects and a side benefit of doing so is I can drop a few frozen french fries in the oil fill hole before going out for a ride and they're done to perfection upon my return!
 
#33 · (Edited)
FRAM catches a lot of flack on forums and YouTube for using cardboard end caps on their Extra Guard and Tough Guard oil filters. Both filter lines have a high efficiency rating of 95% and 99% respectively. STP's low end filters have metal end caps and their efficiency rating is only 93%, so having metal end caps doesn't always mean the filter performs better. I've looked at FRAM Extra Guard filters with 3000 or more miles and the card board end caps and paper filter element are fine.



Any of the major oil filter brands should satisfy your vehicle warranty requirements as long as the filter is the recommended oil filter for your vehicle. If your bike is under warranty, than make sure the filter you use is the manufacturer recommended oil filter.

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If you choose to not use the manufacturer recommended oil filter, than how do you answer these questions regarding the oil filter your using?

1) How do you know the paper filter element flow restriction doesn't cause a back pressure to develop and trip the bypass valve during normal engine operation and within the oil filter service life? How would you ever know this is happening?
2) How do you know the bypass valve is rated correctly for your vehicle?

I was looking at the application list for the FRAM Extra Guard PH6607 on FRAM's website and the list includes outdoor power equipment and motorcycles. You would think the FRAM Tough Guard TG6607 and FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG6607 would be even better filters to use because they have higher efficiency ratings, but when you look at the application list for these better filters it only includes cars. All the outdoor power equipment and motorcycles are taken off the list. Why is that? Does it have something to do with the better quality paper filter element being more restrictive?
 
#39 · (Edited)
If you choose to not use the manufacturer recommended oil filter, than how do you answer these questions regarding the oil filter your using?

1) How do you know the paper filter element flow restriction doesn't cause a back pressure to develop and trip the bypass valve during normal engine operation and within the oil filter service life? How would you ever know this is happening?

2) How do you know the bypass valve is rated correctly for your vehicle?
Ok, I'll bite as this may be helpful for all.

Remember, pumps, any pump, like an oil pump, does not create pressure, it only creates flow. Pressure is created as the result of the most restrictive orifice to the flow the pump produces. Maximum pressure head is expressed as an "x" tall column of water for a pump and this "pressure head" is the maximum amount of back pressure a pump will stand before the fluid goes back through the rotors, vanes, or blades. It is at this stall point that things start to leak or explode in really bad examples.

In response to your question #1, regarding the permeability or lack thereof of the filtering media of a Kawasaki OEM Filter, A Fram Filter, or a Purolater filter, you will not ever know when the bypass valve opens or reseals. In fact, this happens now, on your bike and mine, more often than you would think. The BYPASS valve is just that. It Bypasses oil around the filtering media when pressure on one side of the filter media is greater than or equal to the bypass valve setting pressure on the other side of the filter media. The most often times this happens would be after a cold start and the oil has not warmed up and you decide to go full wheelie mode hitting redline through all the gears. Maybe you have decided to run 90wt oil in your engine... much bypass valve action will be happening.

The second unstated underlying part of your question #1 concerns the filter media performance as to how it relates to the bypass valve. For instance, if you never change your filter at all, I can guarantee that it is full of sludge and the bypass valve will be in operation to try and save your engine. Unfiltered oil is better than no oil at all. Past that scenario, comes the question of filter media performance. A larger filter with more sq in of filtering media will flow oil better than a smaller filter with less filtering media due to the increased surface area of the larger filter requiring less psi to push any given volume of oil through the media. Given that the filter media is of the same type in each filter, the larger filter will have less bypass valve action and flow more oil with less pumping losses versus the smaller filter.

Question #2 is a little scurvy one as Kawasaki does not publish oil data in their manuals. Kawasaki says Oil pressure should be 42 - 56 psi @ 4000 rpm but does not list an oil filter bypass pressure setting or relief valve setting pressure. However, Yamaha does. Most Yamaha's spec a 5GH-13440-50 filter. Most Kawasaki's spec a 16097-0008 filter. Honda's spec a 15410-MFJ-D01. All these filters spec back to the beloved Fram PH6017A filter, so says Fram. So, a lot of filters, by exact spec, from a lot of manufacturers, can replace the KAW OEM filter, by published spec... Did I mention "by spec"? By looking at the Honda & Yamaha specs, I can really go out and get whatever filter I want. If those filters spec back to the Kawasaki, then that is really good.

I wish I could put pictures in the text here as I want but I think they are shown below for all the data that you want to see.
 

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#34 ·
using fram or making a filter out of used cardboard would be same result, i keep telling others about wix but no one listens, good luck with fram, i wish you well
 
#36 ·
sounds to me like you need to do some research
 
#37 ·
Unless someone can present a paper done by an independent lab testing all aspects of filter performance, then I view it as internet speculation and conjecture and will continue to use a beer can stuffed with toilet paper....

Reading opinions on various internet forums is not research, in my books.
 
#40 ·
sfair, i am beginning to not like you, at one time i did respect your opinion and advice since you did seem to come across as knowledgeable, but not anymore, use your beer can and toilet paper as a filter buddy, go ahead, its a free world, if it makes you happy
 
#41 · (Edited)
Wow, does not take much to make you turn.

Oh well, you are not the first and certainly not the last.

Just to be clear, read between the lines on my last post. There is a message.

As an add, I rarely give opinion on this forum, but when I do, please view it suspiciously and so much internet gobbledygook. I do!
 
#42 ·
lols @btom first of all...

Talking about oils and filters is always going to be a hot topic -for no good reason... It's one thing to get informed and another to develop a belief system.

Thanks @Du-Rron for the nice pictures and info on the PL14459. I have seen it before but never used it; I 'love' it's size. Since there is limited room, the longest filter to fit is 3in, but the diameter can be as large as one can find.

And speaking of clearance, I have cut the regulator's support plate -just a corner- so the filter has lots of room. As I recall I once had a Bosch with marks on it from that bracket/support plate. Not even close to puncturing the filter can, but def some contact. I hope everyone realizes that the engine vibrates independently of that regulator bracket (it is mounted on the frame) so having a 1mm clearance is not all you need. Cutting off a corner makes a lot of room and doesn't compromise the mounting plate's function.

Another point that needs to be made is regarding the filter's by pass valve values. It refers to a pressure Difference between the outside and inside side of the filtering media. So just because the oil pump pushes 40PSI @4000RPM does not mean the valve in the filter (let's say 15PSI) is mostly wide open @ highway speeds. It does open if the filter has reached it's dirt capacity or the oil is too thick to pass thru the filtering media. Both scenarios are Very unlikely... 1 gram of dirt is a lot of dirt, I have never seen anything close. Oil filters hold ~10 grams on average.

I just changed the oil a few days ago (20K miles on the bike) and couldn't find any metal in the oil screen filter. There was a small piece of silicone and that's all. ~7k miles since I last looked at that screen.
I did get some metal in the oil pan ( 0.5 mm the biggest flake, about 5 pieces) and some small brass and silver colored super fine 'glitter'. A little 'glitter' came out of the filter as I cut it. No significant debris where the magnets were on the filter.
I believe the clutch plates are going to produce all kinds of debris no matter what...

I prefer new filters and fresh oil. No matter what filter brand I use, there is always debris in the oil... So it's pretty clear that the oil pump does not suck everything up from the bottom... I guess a magnetic plug would work since some of the debris is magnetic.
 
#44 ·
lols @btom first of all...

Talking about oils and filters is always going to be a hot topic -for no good reason... It's one thing to get informed and another to develop a belief system
.
Belief system and brand loyalty are somewhat the same.

In the automotive world, brand loyalty was something the makers counted on, but it went up in a puff of smoke when the Datsun 510 hit North America.
 
#45 ·
I took a walk thur the pits at my local racetrack and was really surprised that probably more than half of the cars and trucks(probably close to 50) were running Fram filters on both the oil system(dry sumps and wet )or the fuel systems.I know there probably are a few that get them for nothing,ie,sponsorship,but not all.These are $10-$15,000 motors and most of them run fram on the recommendation of their engine builder so I just can't believe they are worthless filters.I run Fram on all my vehicles and I believe Fram gets the job done just as well .I run synthetic oil in all and change filter once between oil and filter changes.We used to race also and we ran Fram filters(thur sponsorship)and cut them every week after 59 lap races and never seen a failure in the filter or did we break a engine.My 2 cents
 
#46 ·
Unbiased reports from a credible lab are my first choice for information. Most will provide the test protocol and test equipment used.

I worked for a major Japanese manufacturer years back, they had switched some load bearing components from steel to plastic. I thought is was just a cost saving move that would make for an inferior product. However after reading the lab reports I was convinced the plastic selected was superior to steel (this plastic was NOT cheap). Steel on steel without continual lubrication really does not wear very well.

Not saying everything on the internet is bad or not valid, point is some information is just opinion. Example, lots of info and youtube videos claim balancing beads don't work. To prove the point they show a tire with beads being tested on a fixed axel wheel balancing machine (what the local tire shop uses to balance your car tire). Well if they had bothered to learn how balancing beads work they would know using a fixed axel balancing machine is useless for testing. Balancing beads work based on the fact you axel is Not in a fixed position it is always changing as the suspension moves up and down.


For now I will continue to use K&N oil filter and Mobil 1 synthetic oil.

WB
 
#47 ·
but he thinks using a beer can with toilet paper is an ok oil filter, would that be used or unused tp?
 
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