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Amplifier Question(s)

5K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  The Heater 
#1 ·
Hi all. So, I decided to put install a Boss Audio MC400 on my '12 Vulcan Classic. I am thinking of placing the amplifier close to the windshield so it doesn't get too hot as opposed to under the seat. The only reason I'd consider under the seat is for wiring purposes. So, since I'm committed to a front location, what wire should I tie it in to? Any comments or advice is appreciated. If you have experience with this particular amplifier, are my heating worries unfounded? Also, I just did a quick search, and a lot of topics on this, but none that actually talked me through how to wire the amp in this scenario. Any help is greatly appreciated. Let's go on the assumption that I am not very knowledgeable about motorcycle wiring:smile2: Thanks!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Should be fairly simple. For 5 amps for a motorcycle the wire should be multi-strand 12 or 10 gauge, if the current draw is higher than 5 amps the wiring will need to be heavier (actually the wire thickness increases as the gauge number becomes smaller). If you don't know which gauge of wire to use there are online wire charts available. Presumably the amp has an off-on switch. Can connect one end of the wiring to one of the wired accessory outputs (They can handle a max. of 10 amps). Those accessory outputs are always powered, so if the amp doesn't have an off-on switch it will be necessary to install that kind of switch in the wiring which powers the amp or it will always be on and will drain the battery when the bike isn't running. One accessory lead is under the seat, and according to the Owner's Manual one is under the gas tank. (On my bike there is one in the headlight shell.) Will need to install a fuse holder and fuse rated for the amp's current draw in the wiring between the wired accessory output and the amplifier - can get what is needed from a hardware or auto parts store. Connect the wire from the accessory connector to the amp's electrical input (maybe marked with a +). Then you will need to ground the amp to the bike's frame using another length of wire which is the same gauge as the input wiring. After that you should be good to go.
 
#6 ·
I have a 06 classic and thinking of putting the same on my bike. Let us know how the sound is, especially at high speeds.
Thanks,
 
#7 · (Edited)
I've been cruising the web for a few days looking at How-To's because I am in the process of doing the same thing........got the speaker adapters ordered and looking for best price on speakers and amplifier.
All the how-to's I've found either strongly suggest or require 10awg wire to power the amplifier. Some of them as a "need to" and some of them as a "better safe than sorry" thing. I haven't found anything suggesting a larger wire anywhere so I'm just going to plan on using 10awg and that way I know I'm covered. All of this is based on a 2 channel amplifier with 150 peak watts per channel. Naturally if you go with a more powerful amplifier then the amp draw will be more and may require larger gauge wire.
 
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#9 ·
I hate to ask, but can someone snap a picture of this accessory lead? I spent s couple hours looking for it, but I could not find it. I saw one where several were plugged it but this one was not obvious. Thanks in advance for any help! Oh, the one under the seat...perhaps this is also a dumb question, if I have a 12 volt port on my handlebars, can I hook into that wire or even ruin if the port?
 
#11 ·
Ok, so getting my oldest ready for Law School, and my youngest going off to college....have barely had time to ride, let alone install this. So, it really wasn't as hard as I made it out to be in my mind. I did install an on/off switch so I can turn it off. Initially I ran the power to the hot ACC in the picture above, and the ground to a metal bolt on the frame. I got a terrible humming engine noise. So, I just connected the ground to the ground ACC wire and bye bye noise. Now, I actually have not tested it on a ride, put played music in my driveway with the engine running. Gotta admit, with the volume all the way up, I couldn't hear very well. Probably well enough cruising in town, but definitely not on the open highway. I'll report back after a full test. But, if I were doing this again, I'd spend the extra $ and go with at least 1000 watt system.

Pics tomorrow after my ride tonight!
 
#12 · (Edited)
The Vulcan Forum has a lot of great info....
Here is the link to my Boss Mc470b install and impressions...

BTW, 10 gauge wire for these little micro amps is wwaayy overkill...

I tapped into one of the "switched" hot leads in the headlight bucket with no adverse fuse blowing and no need for a switch...
The black w/yellow stripe is ground...

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/11-general-vulcan-talk/205641-boss-mc470b.html

Luckymann77
 
#13 ·
Just for kicks

VN900LT ...I have a 250W system installed and wired directly to the accessory fuse from under the seat. I have the speakers mounted to my mirrors with provided brackets and a wired provided remote. I preferred being connected directly since I can play tunes without the key or bike running. The system draw is a mere 3mA when the system is turned off. Never had an issue draining the battery ( It would take 5 months of continually not using the bike to kill the battery at this draw).

My system has proven to be quite loud and clear even on the highway...I've never went beyond half way on volume. The speakers are pointed directly towards each ear and being on the mirrors of each bar they turn out to be less then a couple feet away. They are also within the confines of the windshield. I also have pull back risers on the bars.

Another note - may sound crazy but on the highway you can get better quality and clarity from wearing ear plugs. The ear plugs drown out the wind effect on your ears and the tunes come clearly in. When I do this the tunes are so loud and clear that my passengers often ask me to turn them down!

Another note - The sound quality and volume output is very dependent on the initial track recording and the level of the signal coming from your player. Ensure you have the best quality recording. On playback have your player volume maxed and hence your amplifier will only need to amplify very little and hence avoid distortion.

Hope this helps...
 
#14 ·
Ok, final update. I got an MP3 player(actually another android phone just for my music so my Google Play would sync). I turned the volume on it all the way up, and the volume down on the amplifier. It is more than loud enough now. Apparently my phone volume isn't near enough as this one. So, the 600 watts is more than adequate, even at 70 MPH. I am please with the on/off switch as well. If anyone has a question feel free to ask me. Thanks for all the input!
 
#15 ·
I buy amplifier!:grin2:
 
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#17 ·
I actually decided to go with a Pyle because it has a FM tuner and a volume control that can be wired to the handle bar.
 
#20 ·
Hello, WVRick:

I have done a lot of car audio installations, been doing it for years. It is a special interest I have so I have learned quite a bit over the past 30 years.

I can't say I know that particular sound system, but virtually all amplifiers sold for motorcycle use are a Class T amplifier, for small size, and they do not draw very much current and they do not produce very much heat. I think you are comparing them to the Class A and Class AB amplifiers used for sound quality in car installations. Those are larger, take draw more current, and they produce more heat (especially Class A).

I would wire a relay to switch the power on the amp. Buy a Bosch style 30 amp relay and plug for it at NAPA or other auto parts store. Not expensive. You can Google the wiring scheme for the five lugs on the relay. You put the power to the relay, then run a wire from a switched source like a running light positive wire, to feed the coil on the relay. Make sure you fuse that wire for one or two amps max. You can use an in line fuse holder or if you can find the one or two amp automotive colored fuses (ATM is the mini version) you can use the corresponding fuse holder. You install your 5 amp fuse between the relay power feed and battery. Final wire runs power to your amplifier. Fifth lug on the relay is not used. This will switch power on for the amp when the bike is running and take it away when you turn the key off.

You can wire your amplifier by putting a waterproof fuse holder close to the battery, then running a 12 or 10 gauge wire (it is probably overkill, but will have less current drop for a longer distance to the item getting the power) to the amplifier.

Please make sure you ground the amplifier to the ground post on the battery, NOT the frame. The frame is a ground, but true ground is at the battery ground, and grounding anywhere else acts like putting a big resistor between your amp and the real ground. If you have other items being grounded to the battery, and you are concerned with room on the ground post, I suggest two options: 1) Blue Sea Systems mini ground bus; 2) putting the group of ground wires into a 6 gauge battery ring terminal, crimping it with correct crimping anvil, then soldering the inside to hold the wires put. I will try to post a photo of the ground bus I use on my Vulcan 2000. Very convenient and eliminates crowding on the ground post of the battery. You run one large gauge wire (8 or 6 gauge) from the bus to the battery.
 
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