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Performance Quiet Exhaust.

16K views 95 replies 15 participants last post by  mikesr1963 
#1 ·
I am thinking of adding a cobra powerflo air box and cobra fi2000r fuel manger to my stock VN900 custom.

I find that aftermarket pipes are too loud for my liking. Stock pipe are fine but if I add the air box and fuel manager I want to get the bump in performance.

My Wild Ass Guess (based on nothing) is the new air box will provide about 25% more air flow. Assuming the stock mufflers are designed to provide best performance with stock set up I am guessing that I should look to increase the area of flow from the stock pipes by 25%.

If the stock pipe is 1" in diameter then the surface are is 0.785", If I did a stage 1 debaffle with 4 x 1/4'' holes the 4 holes would increase exhaust area by 25%.

I would like to minimize the size and numbers of holes in the debaffle process to minimize the increase in exhaust volume, but increase flow enough to take advantage of the new air box.

Thoughts, comments suggestions. Any idea how much more air flow the aftermarket air boxes provide??

I really don't know anything about fuel injection and relationship between intake and exhaust so my simple logic here may not be applicable.

As always thank for the input
 
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#2 ·
OK so looking into this subject further it looks like the aftermarket air boxes will provide more like 30% -40% increased air flow. From what I can find on internal combustion engines maintaining air velocity is also important.

If the air flow increases by 30% the pipe size would need to increase by 15% to maintain the same velocity. Drilling the baffle is not the same as replacing the exhaust pipe so the holes drilled in the baffle would need to be a little larger to make up for the length of the internal exhaust pipe.

I am still thinking that increasing the exhaust area by 20% should be about right on the stage one debaffle.
 
#3 ·
Hey WB, I did note that you were on the other thread started by Dan (here): http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/...ron-big-air-cobro-fi2000-powerpro-report.html

It is going to be really tough to do "performance by the numbers" on this setup. That is, unless you get your bike on a dyno and make each of the incremental changes - and comparing those % increase (in HP & torque) figures with the actual flow characteristics of the airbox & exhaust, not to mention the fueling changes you are going to need along the way.

Air flow through the intake, fuel additions, and exhaust flow are really the stuff of Indy cars and drag racers (IMHO). You also have flow restrictions at the intake valves; and the cam lobe design will also impact how much air the motor can take in during the intake stroke. Of course, you will also deal with elevation issues - how "thick" is the air where you are.

In the case of the VN900, again IMHO, the personal experience of knowledgable members here on the forum (and possibly others) will help to guide you on the "seat-of-the-pants" HP & performance gains on the bike. That is, unless you happen to own a dyno.

You cannot do a direct correlation between air flow, fuel, and exhaust restrictions without knowing the overall efficiency of the motor (the entire air flow tract, from filter to tailpipe); and by the way, the exact flow of the various components at various air temperatures and altitudes. It fun to talk about it, but a 10% increase in maximum air flow through your bolt-on intake will never give you a 10% bump in HP or torque.

Personally, I heard the experience of the riders who performed the mod(s) I was thinking about, and took those experiences largely into account when deciding what I wanted to do, based on my budget and abilities.

I would have never gone with a fuel processor that has "adjustment pots" to dial in fuel additions at idle, cruise, and WOT. Too many other variables to take into account for me. But that's just me. That's why I "bought into" the Cobra claims re: their Fi2000 PowerPro

Fi2000 PowrPro Tuner | Motorcycle Fuel Management | Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom (07-15) | Cobra USA

That's my take on it, while having my first coffee of the morning.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Shadow,

That is kind of what I thought, no simple easy answer. I am still on the fence about the fuel processor, I like the power-pro and think it is probably the best option but still want to look into the Fi2000r a little more.

Re the exhaust I want to keep it as quiet as possible but allow for a little more air flow so the add on air box and fuel processor have a little more latitude to move air/fuel through the engine.

Perhaps best to start with small holes and slowly work up in size until no change in performance.
 
#7 ·
Thanks Dan,

I think you are right add air box and processor first then perhaps mod the exhaust.

Sounds like you can really feel a little more punch with the air and processor with stock pipes. The power pro is not cheap, but sounds like t provides good results. I assume you have not encountered any hesitation or dead spots in the throttle and that it runs smooth at idle etc.
 
#8 ·
Bill, just remember the air intake ports on the motor remain the same size regardless of what air kit you put on. ( you will see em when you take the stocker off) What a air kit does is give you fresh cold air with less restriction ... IMHO, and my experience when adding a hypercharger was that air movement into the ports was increased ... more air plus more fuel equals more power.
As far as de baffling goes ... be careful, there was a guy on here that dyno'd his bike before and after a de baffle ( with no add ons) and had a decrease in power ... not a increase.( from memory, 43 hp to 37 hp.)

As Dan said, when adding a air kit plus a processor, the exhaust tone is a little louder and a little throatier (is that a word). I never dyno`d my custom, didn't have to as I had a auto tune processor, but I can say, the bike pulled better, ran smoother and was a better, nicer bike to ride.
 
#9 ·
or just get a bigger motor? they are quiet and have double/triple the hp/tork.
 
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#12 ·
Right. No combination of pulleys, air, fuel processing, and pipes will ever give this the same torque possible from a bigger engine properly constructed and tuned. The issue is whether it yields the right combination of power, price, and fun, like that all mountain ski many skiers use.

Rode the 9 on the freeway up to Frederick yesterday ('twas cold in DC, around 58!), then home on backroads. The biggest downside of this bike, even with the pulleys and the air/fuel mods, is the power/comfort combination between highway and freeway speeds on up. It would be nice to have more acceleration above 60, and it would be nice (even with the pulleys) to have lower vibes on the freeway at 70+.

And it would be nice if my slalom skis smoothed out in long GS turns at 30-40. Not gonna happen. Need a bigger engine, I mean longer, less cut skis, for that to happen, like my very old Rossignal 7Gs.

But Bill, the BAK and PowerPro definitely improved my bike, and the bump was bigger than I expected. Is it worth the $700+ it cost on Amazon? To me, yes. Might not be to the next guy.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Whiting57,

This inputs has been helpful. I did read that maintaining exhaust/pressure velocity is important. If the exhaust is too free flowing then air flow velocity and performance drops. For that reason and not wanting to make the bike loud I wanted to minimize the debafelling.

Now I am guessing there is enough flow with the stock unmodified exhaust based or your and Dan's experience, unless anyone else Chimes in with a different experience.

Thanks guys
 
#11 ·
wb,, exhaust tuning is a science mor than it is an art. Back pressure is key to developing proper max Tork, which is what you want not just pure HP. Tork is usable power developed at low and midrange rpm where you would normally operate yor engine. it is what you need to initiate rolling and accelerate. Hp is required to maintain speed and is most abundant at higher rpm (v9 motor). not where you want to operate yor motor, and most folks change pulley ratios to advert this and then have a poor performing motor.

Back Pressure. stock pipe is tuned for stock set up. It is fine for what little adjustment/gains you will get from air filter + fuel adder.

Don't punch holes in stock pipes, it just destroys what performance value they have. If you have to have louder, it is at the cost of performance. get a long straight pipe. the longer the better. its works much like a wind instrument. pressure waves create back pressure. different rpms have diff frequencies. longer pipes allow them to synchronize wave lengths.

short pipes are just annoying loud. you see them on dragsters. with fuel still burning on exhaust. those motors are bilt for top end hp. they shove as much air and fuel in them as possible, they don't care if there is excess, as they are trying to make as much HP in as short a time as possible.. not exactly how you ride yor bike?
 
#13 ·
Great post Poncho. Yes, most of a street bikes life is spent at 1/4-1/2 throttle unless passing on the highway. Useable power in this range makes for a pleasant riding experience. I used to ride an R6...it made a ton of HP but it was really high strung. A thrill to be sure for about 30 minutes then the extreme ride position and lack of low end torque made the experience fade pretty quickly. That's when I switch to cruisers and ADV bikes. I personally feel that the stock Vulcan is just a nice running bike for what it is. A user friendly mid size bike. It is the bike I choose to ride most often. I considered some intake and exhaust mods but decided against it. I just figured what would I really be gaining for the money spent.
 
#14 ·
sm,, fellas get these midsize motor bikes because they are a great bike and deal and offer midsize performance at very reasonable cost. but then they want more power. and its not in the cards. the motor as is fine for what its meant to do. if you need more power, you have to spin it faster because its only got 900cc displacement and that's all the more Volume it will ever have. Spinning it faster just makes it vibrate more, Buzzy is the word. so then after $pending all the air/fuel/pipe, then its $pend to get diff pulley ratios so as not to buzz, but that defeats the air/fuel/pipe fix.
some will just live with it, that's ok. others will eventually move on to a bigger motor, remark at its stock power and smoothness and exclaim "why did they wait so long?"..
nothing wrong with a midsize motor, Iv had plenty on my journies. just accept that its not ever gonna be a big dawg. quit trying to make it one. or jus get a bigger motor. poncho
 
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#15 ·
Guys,

This is great input. I agree no real substitute for a bigger engine. If I were to go that route I would most likely go with the Honda CB1100. The CB750 was the poster bike back in the early 70's, I had a CB500 500 four which was a great bike. Happy with my 9 just looking for a little more punch on the throttle.

Poncho, thanks for the info on back pressure. I don't want loud and definitely don't want it at the cost of performance.

Is the fuel processor really needed with a BAK and stock exhaust? My concern is that it will run lean with stock control and run too hot. Will the stock electronics handle a BAK? Is the processor really needed? Will you get a reasonable power bump with just adding a BAK?
 
#16 ·
The stock processor has very little feed back as there are no oxygen sensors on the US VN900. It may or may not run ok. Not much of an answer but every unit is a little different. I personally would not risk it if it where my bike. As Poncho stated above, the stock FI control is configured for optimal performance and emissions with all stock components in place. It may tolerate an air cleaner change without a processor but you could actually be losing power and drivability. No guarantees unfortunately. Unless you really like the bling factor of a BAK, money may be better spent on other items (If you don't already have them) like saddlebags, seat upgrade, freeway bars...etc.
 
#17 · (Edited)
wb,, the reason I write this stuff is because I have done it more than a few times to at least a dozen diff motors and configs.. other than it is fun to do and think we accomplished something usefull, mostly its just an exercise in vanity..

changing up the airbox -filter will not hurt yor motor. no fuel adder req'd. I kno most folx run skared and overkill everything. their bike is their precious... toy?.. its all they'v got.

opening up the airflow. the motor is an air pump. it can only draw 450cc worth of air per cylinder per every other revolution. unless you super or turbo charge yor intake manifold, it works in negative suction pressure.. So you can only put so much air in regardless of what else you do.

then there is the exhaust function. IF you change restriction on exit you affect intake momentarily IF your cams have overlap open both valves (they don't). these are not high performance motors that everybody thinks they are. they are quite reasonable tame for midrange performance and longetivity..

watch your plugs. they tell a story. if yor on the lean side, they will run white. brown/tan is optimal. black is too rich. put a fuel adder if you want. its just money. and fuel. and don't whine when yor mileage suffers..
or pay attention to yor motor. Use only synthetic oil(yor choice) and good (not cheap) filter 5k intervals. you will do well.
 
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#19 ·
watch your plugs. they tell a story. if yor on the lean side, they will run white. brown/tan is optimal. black is too rich. put a fuel adder if you want. its just money. and fuel. and don't whine when yor mileage suffers.
Poncho,

How many miles should I ride before checking the plugs after installing the a BAK? Is 200 miles OK or is that too few or too many?
 
#25 · (Edited)
here's a thot.. I recently re'acquired my old 05 yamahamer RoadStar. I traded my v2k to my buddy who had bought this from me 8yrs ago. I restored it to stock in hopes of selling it for cheap.
So with the Pacific Coast trip coming up in 3 weeks, I decided to prep it for a week of touring. Riding it the last several days, I find it to be (again) a most POWERFUL motor in a midsize chassis. Not small chassis, but very manageable smaller than my big bikes. But the MOTOR is a v17 aircooled 5 speed wide ratio and is HUGE on power and tork. It is Fun to ride and the motor is just so deep in power. I put it in any gear and never have to downshift..

Yammers still makes this bike since 99. its a softail knockoff and 10x better than any I have ridden plenty. These can be had for similar dollars as any of them kaw v9s. Its not bigger than a V9 but it has 2x the motor and is a solid platform.. If you ever get a chance to ride one, do it. will change yor perspective on big MOTOR bikes. are not intimidating. poncho
 

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#28 · (Edited)
theres no such thing as a free lunch..
but there is a difference between buying a sandwich or paying for the whole buffet.

A base Nomad here is $17,300, a base vaquero is $16,400 ( on sale from $17,200 non abs), a base 900 $8700, a v star 1300 $14000.

The last dyno sheet I saw on a 900 with the big 3 was 60.5 at the rear wheel.

Here is a nomad 1700 dyno .. with a power commander no less .



http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/17-047/graph/ZX63640.jpg

whats that average out to ..mmmm roughly $1300 per HP. That's a great deal for performance.

Yeh yeh ... I get the torque thing... but if ya want to get into a weinie measuring contest, ya gotta learn how to unfold it first. LOL

Doing the full Monty on a V900, pipes, intake and processor may yield a gain between 5-10 hp.
try from 43 at the rear wheel stock, to in the high 50's to low 60's.

 
#29 ·
Here's a guy who gained 13.5% in HP and a 12.4% increase in torque simply by adding the BAK with no processor:
Post Dyno Charts Here..... - Page 12 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums.
I can believe it. I added a BAK and processor, and the results are significant. I probably got a little more than he did because of the processor. The only place I'm longing for a little more power now is at or above highway speeds.

Here's a guy who got close to 60 HP doing all three: Post Dyno Charts Here..... - Page 16 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

Here's a guy who got over 60 HP with the big 3: Post Dyno Charts Here..... - Page 17 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums.

Here's another pretty big increase over stock: Post Dyno Charts Here..... - Page 21 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

Maybe I should add pipes so I know I have the whole 9 yards plus the sound, LOL. I'm actually now curious what I'm getting with the "big 2", as the enhancement has been so much better than I thought it could be. I know, poncho, it's window dressing. Well, actually it's more than that. A 15% or more bump to a midsize is still a significant bump, even if we're not talking about wheelies any time soon.
 
#30 ·
start at max 43hp - 43ft/lbs at what rpm? Buzz territory.
then add a chunk o change ~$1k. (so much for this being a cheap bike)
finish at max 60hp - 60ft/lbs at what rpm? Buzz territory.
add some pulleys ~$500, get her a bit down below the buzz zone.
ther goes yor power cuz its all in the Buzz zone.

all these statistics are numbers on paper, including $/hp ratio crap.
who cares.. if its not enuff (it aint or you wouldn't be doin all that mod to get mor) and you have to go to the buzz zone to get it.. doesn't matter if its pennies per pound.. thers not enuff of it to be had, but keep trying to squeeze a turd out of a mouse fart.

now put yor butt on a big motor sled.. they make max (100ish) power below 3k rpm well below the buzz zone.. hell they make more power at idle than..
I didn't say you have to buy the farm.. take that sled for a whole day ride. do a bunch of different kind of roads and riding. come back at the end of the day and say you need a smaller motor bike.. if you do, well then you do. my money is you won't. been ther dun that.
 
#31 · (Edited)
start at max 43hp - 43ft/lbs at what rpm? Buzz territory.
then add a chunk o change ~$1k. (so much for this being a cheap bike)
finish at max 60hp - 60ft/lbs at what rpm? Buzz territory.
add some pulleys ~$500, get her a bit down below the buzz zone.
ther goes yor power cuz its all in the Buzz zone.

... and you have to go to the buzz zone to get it..

...now put yor butt on a big motor sled.. they make max (100ish) power below 3k rpm well below the buzz zone..
I take the point that the big sled generates more power and torque everywhere than the midsize. However, while it is true that most numbers reported in forum posts pertain to what might be called the "buzz zone," that does not mean that there are not gains outside that zone.

Most forum posts don't show both before and after dyno charts across the full power band, but I have attached one that does. At 2500 RPMs---certainly well below the buzz zone---it shows a HP gain of about 25% and a torque gain of about 17% (gains from the big 3). It shows gains throughout the power band, not just in the "buzz zone," however we might define it. Note that the gains are particular large in the the 4000-5000 RPM range (buzz zone by my definition), which is right where I'll be when passing on the freeway or on the highway after downshifting, and where we'll be in third or fourth getting up to speed quickly on a freeway entry ramp. When putting along in pulley-modified third at about 2000 RPM in town, there is a torque gain of over 10% that quickly rises to around 17% by 2500 RPM. That is significant. That's the part I've noticed most from my BAK and PowerPro processor. It's not huge, but it bumps the 900 power and torque from modest to surprising, while retaining the relatively nimble handling of middle-weight cruiser.

All of us having fun doing these mods have to decide whether the fun is enough to justify the cost.

All that said, if someday I start doing a lot of freeway riding, I'll get a bigger bike. But for the amount I do now, I'm happy. In fact, if I start touring, I'll probably do it on secondary roads. I may never need a bigger bike.
 

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#32 ·
but keep trying to squeeze a turd out of a mouse fart.
quote of the day ... and its still early, I'll pay that one.
 
#34 ·
these statistics are numbers on paper, including $/hp ratio crap.
Nor have we got into the power to weight ratio or how anemic 100 hp is from a 2000 cc motor. Interestingly enough is all the dyno sheets on that thread of V2K's sporting the big 3 as well, I guess the quest for power is not just limited to the mid range bikes.
 
#35 ·
as stated b4, mods are for fun and do not enhance the performance aspect to any real value.. paper data is just that paper and data.. if it floats yor boat, then spend yor coin, nobody is impressed with yor paper data.
stock. 125hp/ftlbs 2500rpm. no lines on paper can imitate/replace the schitteatingrinn on yor mugg wen you roll yor wrist.
all this nonsense about $/hp and hp/lb ratios is just that. nonsense. the proof is in the pudding. get on a sled and ride it.
ther is nothing wrong with a midsize motor. it is watt it is. quit trying to make it into some exceptional performance machine. its not in its cards. or spend all yor coin on it. butt you could have just bought a Bigger Motor bike and not had to do all that mod stuff.
then thers this whole expose about it being "as big" as a full size sled but with the mid motor and heres its hook.. cheap price.
well if its "as big" as a full size bike, and it is, then the whole argument of hp/lb ratio goes right out the window. who cares?
its not a barn busting hauler bike.. its a big bike with a little motor.
it works fine for what it does.. but it will never be a big bike with big motor performance. it is watt it is, that's all. poncho
 
#36 ·
Thanks everyone for the input on this thread. I am going to get the Cobra Powerflo air box, keep everything else stock. As Poncho suggested I will check plugs before installation and after a couple of hours riding with the box installed.

If I get a little more SNORT out of the stock exhaust and pick up a little power I will be happy. I don't expect a huge improvement in power and hope that the plugs don't indicate the bike is running too lean with the new air box.

I figure for under $250 a little lower tone on the exhaust (I don't want it loud) and a modest boost in power is worth it. If it is running too lean or I just don't like the sound or performance with it, I can take it off and sell it and only be out of pocket around $100 and a little time.

IMO I just can't justify adding new exhaust, fuel processor, pulleys, air kits etc.. That stuff adds up to substantial $$ fast. For around the same money or a little more I can sell the VN900 and buy a nice used bike with a bigger engine, have lots of extra power etc.

I bought the 900 custom as a low cost, low maintenance, short trip cruiser (4-6 hours) for riding on secondary roads, with the occasional short 70-80 mph ride on the hi-way. It is a great bike for that and I am very happy with her.

I will be travelling on bus. the next few weeks so it will be a little while before I get the new air box installed. When I do I will post before and after pictures of the spark plugs and let you know my first impressions. I will either like it or have a very slightly used Cobra Powerflo air box up for sale!!

WB
 
#37 ·
My bet is that you will get a ten percent improvement with air alone. rhe reason I say this is that in one of the links I posted earlier to KawisakiMotorcycle.org (the other Kawi forum), the poster got over 10 percent just from the BAK, and I imagine the cobra box is similar.

Let us know what your butt dyno tells you.
 
#40 ·
Hey Poncho, how'd you get to ride so darn many bikes. I want what yer having, LOL.
 
#43 ·
those be jus some the ones I put in my barn.. have rode n wrenched a hellofalott mor n these.

well wen yor single and the kids are paid off.. ther seems to be a whole lotta xcess money to have fun with.. everbody tells me I should do watt theyr doin, get married, buy houses, (debt), workaholix.. seems nobody is havin as much fun as me. I tell em no thanx, the grass is greener my side the fence.. U do watt u gotta do. poncho
 
#45 ·
Pretty sure that's how I look everyday I getta ride.

Tempt ya? Hell I ENCOURAGE you to do so!

I went from a 1200 goldwing to my 07 Betty, what a ride! Miss the storage I had on the wing, but that's bout it... The torque IS impressive, even with my big tater ass on it. Shuddup Zig & Ponch. More than enough... She's a stump puller for damn sure

The V2k will have ya grinnin, get your ol ticker a working, and keep it all that way for many many miles.

Had mine just over 2 years and have put 20k on it, I ride the hell out of it, have had no issues what so ever. Cept for short lived rear tires, but, that's the wrist problem that you acquire (carpal tunnel sorta thang) when ya own one :grin2:
 
#46 ·
Pretty sure that's how I look everyday I getta ride.

Tempt ya? Hell I ENCOURAGE you to do so!... The torque IS impressive, even with my big tater ass on it.

The V2k will have ya grinnin, get your ol ticker a working, and keep it all that way for many many miles.

Had mine just over 2 years and have put 20k on it, I ride the hell out of it, have had no issues what so ever. Cept for short lived rear tires, but, that's the wrist problem that you acquire (carpal tunnel sorta thang) when ya own one :grin2:
Thhhhhtop It. Shuddup. Please, just thhhhhhtop it. LOL.

Maybe someday.
 
#47 ·
My opinion on all of this is all of you are partially correct, and partially wrong. However, when it comes to me, budget plays a big role in what bike I own. As noted earlier, the 9 is an affordable machine, where you can get NEW for the price of a used 1100 or 1200 and maybe even some 1500 and 1700s. When I got my 9 used I had my choice of an 08 900 or a 96 1500. Yes, the 1500 is a lot bigger motor. But it was 8 years older than my 9. Needed work. I didn't want to work on it just to ride. I knew the 9 wouldn't have the power of the 1500, and yes, I would love to have that power sometimes. Of course I would have a grin so big you could drive a tractor trailer through it if I owned a V2K. Honestly, who wouldn't? But the 9 is effing FUN. It's been well documented it's not a touring bike, if you compare it to full on dressers. Doesn't mean it can't be done. Hell, I've taken day long, multi-day trips on my Vulcan 750 bobber, which for all intents and purposes was a bar hopper. Just the bars I was hopping to were states apart, vs across town. But you don't always have to buy new, and spend $1500 for the big 3. I certainly didn't. You can customize and modify the 9 on the cheap if you know where to look. I've done it. Twice. This year. Still doing it. Yes there's things about it that make it "not like a big bike" and there's things about it that would make it near perfect if it just had this or that. But one could find flaws in ANY bike, big or small. Like some say "yes the V2K is a HUGE motor, but it weighs a ton" etc. Someone is always going to find something wrong with everything. But bikes are one of the few things were it doesn't cost an arm and a leg (unless you own a Harley) to truly make your own. That being said it's just as easy to dump 10 grand into accessorizing a bike before you know it too. It's human nature to always want more. If you have 100hp you want 125. If you have 350 you want 400. If you have 40 you want 60. It doesn't matter what you have, you always want to make it just a little bit better. I'm cheap. I'm not afraid to admit it. I bought my 9 with the "big 3" already done. Saved me over a grand. Got the bike cheap too. Custom parts on it and custom paint on it, for cheap. Less than $5k in the bike total. I beg of you to find another truly custom bike for under 5 grand. Is it a show stopper? Maybe not. But I get tons of compliments. And I smile every time I'm on her. Like I just stole her and got away with it.

I know some people wish the 900 had more power in 5th for passing on the highway etc. What ever happened to dropping down a gear and gunning the throttle like we do in cars that lack in the HP/TQ dept? I drop into 4th all the time to on the highway if I need to pass. I could just as easily do it in 5th, but it is a bit slower so I adapt. PonchoLibre is right, torque is what you feel. And the 9's torque is in the higher rpm range. Drop it down a gear, bump up those rpm's, get around the car you wanna get around, move into 5th and keep cruising. It's not brain surgery. Think about what happens in your car with an automatic tranny. You're in drive, cruising at 70 and you wanna get around this truck that is going 69 and it's taking too long to get around. You put your foot to the floor. Does the car just speed up? No. It drops down a gear or two to put the rpms in the power band so you can get up and go. It just does the thinking for you.

"Get on the sled and ride it". Couldn't have put it better myself Ponch. But, I have to say, bigger isn't always better. Ask my girlfriend :grin2:
 
#48 · (Edited)
"Get on the sled and ride it". Couldn't have put it better myself Ponch. But, I have to say, bigger isn't always better. Ask my girlfriend :grin2:
she don't know what she aint had.. neither have you till you plant yor azz in the saddle one them v2k's and don't even hafta crak the whip.. tho that will plant you back... just roll on the throttle gently from idle and feel those Clydesdales flex their muscles, at a mere roll from stop you can tell this is no oridinary muscle machine.. it is all very well disciplined and controlled team of big ponies capable of pulling a huge wagon load of heaven sent liquid gold, :beer: straight up any SanFagtown most notorious streets.. at a mere walking pace in first gear you already know your on one the most powerful motors ever wedged into a sled and this is just off idle..
now take it out and let her stretch her legs.. you wont be able to put your lips back together for a week.. yeah it will hurt some, you will cry, you baby.. but you will never be satisfied with any of those smaller imitation motorbicycles agin..

now ther be plenty of v2k to be had for just a handlefull of dollars, some even less than you paid for that minibike.. poncho

ps. wen I had my v2k, the thot never crossed my mind "I want/need a bigger bike"..
 

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#53 ·
yes she does.. watts a tomahawk?
 
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