Amsoil winter storage, drive away in spring. - Page 4 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #31 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 05:48 PM
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I just winterized using Mobile One 4T. How does the Amzoil compared to the Mobile One 4T (motorcycle specific formulation)? What are the specific differences with respect to benefits, if any?

Somebody told me that Mobile One recently removed some of their original formulation additives. So, I opted for the Mobile One 4T, which is the formulation that is supposed to be specifically formulated for motorcycles. At $10.99 per quart, it was kind of expensive compared to non-synthetics, but it only takes about 4 quarts, so I decided to give it a try. I also replaced the oil filter, a Wick brand, from O'Reilly's.

I fogged the engine with STABIL fogging oil, wired up a Schumacher Battery Maintainer (Walmart), wiped down the whole motorcycle, stuffed some plastic bags in the pipes to keep the critters out, and put the cover on.

Does anybody know of a source for fitted covers to actually fit onto the ends of the pipes? Seems like there would be a market for that versus the plastic bag idea, but I haven't been able to find anything like that, maybe just some plastic molded covers made in the shape of the end of the pipes, kind of like a lid that fits over the top of a cup or something. It would be a significantly better barrier compared to the plastic bags, which rodents might mess with.

I haven't decided whether I'll take it out this winter. Some winters are quite mild, and we have occasional days that it gets warm enough to ride, kind of an Indian Summer kind of thing. But, with some of the recommendations I've read not to start it once it has been winterized, I'm torn whether I should start it up if we get a nice day or two this winter.

Last edited by Captain1201; 11-02-2012 at 05:55 PM.
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post #32 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 06:27 PM
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Ok that makes sense, I know there was talk of moisture and all, is it ok to save a partially open container, I always buy the 4 quart jugs an never use it all.
Which is one of the reasons I recommend buying in quarts.

Bob

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post #33 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 11:25 AM
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Of course, one of the issues to be concerned with when storing a bike is the duration of storage. If you are off the bike for 2 months your procedure may be different than if you are off the bike for 6 months. Also, there is some consideration about where the bike is stored and temperature fluctuations in storage. I also take into account the last time I changed the oil.

My garage is not heated but it takes a pretty cold couple of weeks for it to get below freezing.

Typically I change the oil before storage and then ride off. That is a warm garage and no more than 90 days storage. I likely will put it on the lift (mc jack).

Just my 2 cents.
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post #34 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 06:22 PM
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the best proof for you guys is to do an oil analysis before and after storing on that oil in the engine
resulting report will give you the answer
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post #35 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 11:47 AM
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Yeah.... I am going to spend over $50 in oil analysis fees to save $40 dollars in oil?

Bob

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post #36 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain1201 View Post
I just winterized using Mobile One 4T. How does the Amzoil compared to the Mobile One 4T (motorcycle specific formulation)? What are the specific differences with respect to benefits, if any?

Somebody told me that Mobile One recently removed some of their original formulation additives. So, I opted for the Mobile One 4T, which is the formulation that is supposed to be specifically formulated for motorcycles. At $10.99 per quart, it was kind of expensive compared to non-synthetics, but it only takes about 4 quarts, so I decided to give it a try. I also replaced the oil filter, a Wick brand, from O'Reilly's.

I haven't decided whether I'll take it out this winter. Some winters are quite mild, and we have occasional days that it gets warm enough to ride, kind of an Indian Summer kind of thing. But, with some of the recommendations I've read not to start it once it has been winterized, I'm torn whether I should start it up if we get a nice day or two this winter.
Not sure why you would usr $11.00 per qt oil to winterize only to have to dump it in the Spring.

If you ride and still have storage time after that, you will have to do the whole winterizing again... More $11.00 per qt oil.. If you ran AMSOIL, you are safe for the storage period and just need to change in the Spring.. If you do ride inbetween, you will just need to stabalize the fuel and fog again. KISS method.

Bob

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post #37 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:08 PM
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Oil has been in the ground for like, how long, how many Billions upon Billions of years, and you guys are concerned about that 5 quarts of new oil you put into your bike at winter storage time going bad and degrading when spring riding season starts? Come on.. If oil didn't degrade in the ground over those 150 Billion years it sure can last the 6 months in your crankcase.
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post #38 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer Group View Post
Yeah.... I am going to spend over $50 in oil analysis fees to save $40 dollars in oil?

Bob
I think the intent there was that one could have empirical evidence to support one claim or another regarding storage. Rather than trusting someone, knowledgable or not, who says it will do one thing or another, an individual could have an analysis done and have black and white evidence to support or disprove their view on this particular issue. I don't think they were suggesting doing a UOA every time.



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Originally Posted by Vulcan_tom View Post
Oil has been in the ground for like, how long, how many Billions upon Billions of years, and you guys are concerned about that 5 quarts of new oil you put into your bike at winter storage time going bad and degrading when spring riding season starts? Come on.. If oil didn't degrade in the ground over those 150 Billion years it sure can last the 6 months in your crankcase.

Your engine isn't lubricated with crude oil. It's lubricated with oil that's been refined and has had additives included. Over time, moisture, combustion by products, etc. etc. will degrade the oil. You can debate how long it takes for that to happen and whether the amount of degradation that occurs in the winter warrants a spring oil change, but, the lab tests that have already been done time and time again show engine oil breaks down over time, even without use. Otherwise, with your same argument, one might NEVER change their oil, as no amount of internal combustion work could apply the kinds of pressure the oil received while in the ground, or while being pumped out of the ground. In reality, the same applies here, only the wear is accelerated when the engine is actually run, which is why manufacturers recommend a certain mileage of oil change interval, which is an amount they have determined is a 'ballpark' for when the oil is likely broken down / worn beyond the point of providing their minimum standards for protection.

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post #39 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 09:46 PM
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I have never changed my oil for winter storage. I just don't see the point. It's going to sit for roughly two months. Maybe two and a half. I've got Dino in my bike right now and have just under 3000 miles on it since the last change which was done at the 700 mile mark during the first service. It will sit in there for a couple months until it warms up a bit. I have Amsoil oil and filter sitting in a box waiting for warmer weather. I'll change it with the Amsoil before I start riding again.


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post #40 of 67 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan_tom View Post
Oil has been in the ground for like, how long, how many Billions upon Billions of years, and you guys are concerned about that 5 quarts of new oil you put into your bike at winter storage time going bad and degrading when spring riding season starts? Come on.. If oil didn't degrade in the ground over those 150 Billion years it sure can last the 6 months in your crankcase.
As was pointed out, that is Crude oil, not refined oil with additives. Once the engine is fired, water and combustion by-products combine to form acids which directly effect the metal surfaces.

Bob

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