I am currently using Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50.
I am considering either Mobil 1 T4 or Rotella T6 next time.
I am considering either Mobil 1 T4 or Rotella T6 next time.
I just wonder why so many folks say that 20W-40 or 50 is too heavy for the 1700s and that we should use what the manual recommends. Well, the manual recommends both for certain temperature ranges. The pic below is from the service manual for the Voyager. The general recommendation is for 10W-40, but is followed with advise to adjust according to conditions:Amsoil here. Getting it from the right sellers and it's as cheap as anything else (Mobil 1 or Valvoline that is). I buy it by the case for that much more of a discount. My personal opinion is that a motorcycle-specific conventional oil will offer much better protection of the wet clutch, transmission and overhead cams than diesel engine synthetic oil. JASO-MA is the bare minimum for wet clutch operation; but has nothing to do with the other unique properties of our engines. Oil designed for slow moving, high compression engines is going into bikes with very fast spinning overhead cams. It's certainly no skin off my nose; but I think that marketing has sung people to sleep with the notion that 'synthetic' (which is just a word slapped on a bottle anymore) is so much better, that it's somehow better than a motorcycle specific conventional. When in fact, the MC specific conventional oil will offer much much better protection. (And MC specific synthetic even better; but if we're talking like-for-like pricing).
One thing to note. Some are ALSO sucked into marketing gimmicks for "V-Twin Oil" and buy heavier weight oil than what the manual recommends. Our metric cruisers actually have a lot more in common with sportbikes than Harley-Davidsons. Shared oil between the engine and transmission, overhead cams, most Vulcan engines have a fairly high top end RPM too (the VN900 hit's 8k, and the 1700 revs faster than a Harley-Davidson 106"). The V2K is a little closer; being a slow revving lumbering engine; but the rest really would be better off with the oil marketed for 'sportbikes', with those additive packages. And running what the manual recommends; which on most bikes is 10W-40. Some misread the manual and think because it sometimes, once in a while, during the hottest part of the summer gets 'that hot', they run the oil for those conditions. But ultimately they are sacrificing protection to run the oil that's ideal for 2 or 3 days a year instead or running the oil that's best for the other 360+ days of the year. (Except, of course; for those in truly very hot climates; like Death Valley or southern Florida/Texas).
Just my $0.02. I'm happy with Amsoil but I was happy with Valvoline and Mobil 1 too. Any of the premium synthetic motorcycle specific oils will offer excellent protection.
I just did a used oil analysis on my wifes bike (for the fun of it). She has 9k miles on her bike. I change the oil in hers once a year (she only rides a couple thousand miles a year). After about 4,000 miles and a little over a year; the oil came back (Amsoil) still in grade with the additives still plentiful. They said I could've easily gone much longer; and the metal in the oil (which helps determine wear) was well below average from a 750 Honda with that many miles. So it appears to be doing its job!
Liquid Moly 4T is okay, otherwise the brand Liquid Moly contains MoS2 which is "Moly" which is a clutch killer. Any oil you use should be JASO MA rated, which does not allow "friction modifiers" like MoS2.Previous owner had Castrol 15W50 and now did my first change. Decided to go with Liqui Moly 10W 40 although it is mostly above 30 C here in the summer but rarely, if ever, goes up to 40 C. Filter is Kawasaki brand.
Drain plug gasket was absent but no leaks whatsoever so left it as is.
So if I decide to put the washer back in will any washer do the job or do I need the specified one?