Can I remove the transfer canister for my exhaust - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Can I remove the transfer canister for my exhaust

Im wondering if I can remove the transfer canister under the belly of the bike on my 2005 nomad 1600 to be able to make the exhuast loader i have already removed the baffles and i am still not happy with sound but dont want to caugh up 500 for a new exhuast
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2009, 11:50 PM
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Justace69,
This has been discussed on some forums and seems a fairly common practice. There was at one time an adapter available that replaced the "goat belly" and connected your header pipes directly to the tail pipes, but I'm not sure its available any more. You could have them custom welded, or you could try the gutting procedure described on Gadget's site, found here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/goat_belly_gut_procedure.htm
I'm planning to try this in the next few weeks on a Mean Streak system I'm fitting to my 07 1500 Classic.

Dave
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2009, 07:30 PM
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I gutted mine on my 02 Nomad and removed the baffles as described on Gadgets, nice sound not too loud, but noticible.

dbl
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2009, 08:35 PM
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dbl, that's gotta reduce back pressure and help free-flow the exhaust, although it wouldn't be in any "tuned" way - did you notice any performance improvement (or loss) along with the sound?
thanks
Dave
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 05:40 AM
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I did not notice any performance improvements, but it does sound a 100 times better, and that makes me feel like it is faster. I have thought of having a muffler shop build me a pipe to eliminate the canister and mike the pipes true duals.

dblbucket
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks for your time and the link to see how this is done. Do you think I could get the same results just by replaceing the canister with some high heat flex tube rather then ruin the canister just in case I don't like the sound?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 06:11 AM
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I have thought of doing that myself, my only reservation would be the flex pipe burning into at an inoppertune time. I have tried to find a muffler shop that worked with small pipe to try and get two connector tubes made but no luck so far. If you try this let me know how it works out.

Thans, Dblbucket
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 12:44 PM
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Guess that goat belly's been driving us all nuts - I too was thinking exactly the same, wondering if it could be done with flex pipe. I suppose for a permanent arrangement you could cut the front and back pipes before the start of bend into the belly and weld in new sections straight across. I guess at some point you start to wonder how far to take this instead of just buying aftermarket pipes.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justace69 View Post
Thanks for your time and the link to see how this is done. Do you think I could get the same results just by replaceing the canister with some high heat flex tube rather then ruin the canister just in case I don't like the sound?
With the right tools you can do both the cat (goat belly) and the mufflers in a couple hours. It took me about 3 hour's from start to finish. It took longer to get the welder out then it did to weld it. The sound is much better. I have a trailer that I pull behind mine and I don't need all that noise echoing between the bike and the trailer. Can't say it gave any more power but it sure sounds better.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 02:13 AM
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NOTAHD, is your bike a Classic or Meanie rather than a Nad? The Gadget article shows the innards of a Nad goat belly which must be a little different with one pipe coming out for the left side. I'd like to hear from someone who's done a Classic or Meanie belly and whether it should be cut the same as Gadget shows for the Nad, e.g. horizontally along the seam until nearing the in/out pipes, then across the bottom to meet the horizontal slice (leaving the end section with all 4 pipes intact)? Or did you just rip it right up the seam the full length?
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