vulcan 1600 crank berrings gone?Worth buying? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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vulcan 1600 crank berrings gone?Worth buying?

Hello, my first post here.
I ran into a bike thats a 2006 vulcan 1600 with about 3k miles on it. The guy wants short money for it 2k. because he sais it has a spun main berring?

I kind of find it hard to believe. Im no bike expert, more of a cars ect. I can take a car engine apart and fix.


The bike idles, but wont move and will die if you give it gas. (the seller sais he didnt check the oil and drove acouple miles, the bike died, wouldnt start. i.e, battery. He put a new battery in and the bike ran for acouple mins. and locked up) From there he had the bike inspected, had oil in it..not full but oil, they took something off and "noticed" that the crank berring spun. The dealer said it needed a new crank shaft and berrings.

Im thinking this probem has nothing to do with the engine, more of a transmision drive/ belt.
The place he took the bike to also kinda sux. The bikes mint very nice, Worth buying?
How much do you think this type of problem would cost?

Hope i didnt say too much, thanks for the help. Mike
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 08:51 PM
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If indeed it has spun a crankshaft main bearing, you are looking at new crankcase halves as the main bearings are not availale seperately, as well as a new crankshaft, if necessary. Also, there is no "one" part you could take off and see a spun bearing.
Does it knock when you rev it up?

Post back.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply, yah it ticks slightly and wont rev up at all though. The sellers a customer of mine.i talked to him some more about the bike and the seller said he went for a ride without checking the oil, ect and this happend and there was oil in it when stalled. Checked it and said it was "gunky". sitting all winter. Low on oil, but didnt feel like it was a problem.
He said there wasnt a single noise out of the ordinary wile riding. Parked the bike, went to start it and wouldnt..batery from sitting throught the winter dead..so he got a new batery and 5 mins down the road. Everything stoped.

So i realy dont know, the seller isnt a dumby..but im not too sure..he paid a dealer money to diagnose the problem, but im not shure how they did? The particular dealer dosnt have a good rep. at all.Oh yah the dealer just took the transmision cover off. And said it was a berring. They said to him that they never seen or hered of a problem like this, paperwork just sais berrings bad.

Im able to take this engine out and have the work done to it weather it needs it. How much do you think it would cost? machine work and parts?

Im just confused honestly and think this problem isnt much at all. But i dont wanna work on the bike at his house to see whats wrong with it. And want to be respectfull to him.

Im thinking the problem maybee valve adjustment. And the stalling has somthing to do with maybe never been serviced "maybee" and a computer problem with the battery? Yesterday i thought it was a belt drive.but its a shaft. Thinking that it was a drive bearing the dealer was talking about.

Do you think this bike is worth buying? This bike looks like new! Theres one with alot more miles but runs mint, isnt clean though for 3k down the st. from me.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 10:48 AM
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I'm not sure if the 1600 engine has the same design as my 900 (others on here may know better) but if so, the crankshaft has "plain", or sleeve type main bearings. This means a plain shaft turning inside a closely fitted bearing bore. On most cars, there are replaceable bearing inserts that can be changed out when the crankshaft bearing journal wears undersize, or if the crank is ground undersize. If the bearing is starved for oil, the insert can weld itself to the crankshaft and "spin" inside its bearing bore. The connecting rods on these bikes use these type bearing inserts, and can also be "spun" due to lack of oil.
On the bike, however, the main bearing is part of the crankcase, and not an insert. It cant really "spin" however it can be quickly and completely destroyed from lack of lubrication. The crankcase would have to be replaced, as well as the crankshaft. The connecting rod bearings are almost certainly damaged, and the rods would also be suspect as they get lots of unusual forces applied to them when their bearings get tight. Get prices on at least the cases, crank and rod bearings, as well as all the gaskets and seals and everything else associated with a bottom end overhaul. I would look at the oil pump too, they don't like running without oil! Lots of labor involved, and you may well decide it's not worth it.

Ron in Cincinnati

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 11:12 AM
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A quick check at babbitsonline shows the crankshaft priced at $800.00, and the crankcase priced at $1034.00

Ron in Cincinnati

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks alot for the relpies.

Like said, probelly isnt worth it to rebuild the lower end.

thanks still looking into things
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 11:55 AM
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Oh, but those main bearings WILL spin in the case.
I am going to take a guess here. If it was crankshaft related, that engine would be knocking like crazy. What it could be is the bevel gear bearing in the front case is gone and that is a much easier, and cheaper repair, and can be diagnosed by removing left side cover.

Post back if you have any questions.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
Oh, but those main bearings WILL spin in the case.
I am going to take a guess here. If it was crankshaft related, that engine would be knocking like crazy. What it could be is the bevel gear bearing in the front case is gone and that is a much easier, and cheaper repair, and can be diagnosed by removing left side cover.

Post back if you have any questions.
Well, now I'm confused. If the main bearings are simply precision holes bored through the castings, could you tell me what you consider the "bearing", and what part of that bearing would "spin", and what part remains stationary?

Ron in Cincinnati

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 01:31 PM
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During manufacturing, the case halves are assembled and the crankshaft holes are align bored. This is why you must buy the cases as a pair. Then the bearings are pressed in to the cases. The crankshaft does not run on case material, nor are the bearings pored in place. (babbit)
If the bearing siezes on the shaft, it simply "spins" in the bore and tears up the case.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 04:21 PM
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OK. I just din't see any reference to pressed in inserts in the maintenance manual, or any reference to replacement inserts. Thanks.

Ron in Cincinnati

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