Newbie to this era, rode in 70s and 80s but never particularly mechanically inclined, bought 01 vulcan 1500 Classic a few months ago. Starts and runs fine.
After a few weeks of sitting idle, turn key on, all elec. functions power on (gas pump cycling, head, tail & neutral lights on etc) but no response when pushing start button. Check battery - full charge. Jump solenoid - starter turns - engine fires up.
Order new solenoid and install, still no action at start button - but now, no headlights (everything else elec. previously mentioned still on). Jump solenoid - fires up.
Order second solenoid from second source (you never know about a $10 ebay part) Install - now not only no action at start button - but no elec. activity at all- no lights, fuel pump, neutral light - nothing. Battery still checking good. Main and all other fuses check good. Disconnect/reconnect computer/brain on friend recommendation. No change.
During all start attempts, kill switch never on, clutch always in and sidestand always up. Clean, tight battery terminal connections. Help!
1. Well turn my face red-- I didn't know there were two versions of the same model. It's confusing enough that there are so many different models of the Vulcan 1500. Now there are models within models? Must be fun ordering parts for these beasts..... Just assumed it was carbed. How can I tell?
2. I Don't have access to the odometer with electronics down. Can't recall mileage for sure but thinking something like 32,000? (but I'm definitely memory challenged.) The title has mileage listed as exempt.
I do know this.. it definitely has two wheels and is a lot heavier than my son's dirt bike, but I guess that don't help much.
Well what do ya know? It does. Guess I have a fuel injected Vulcan. Learn something new every day. Trouble of it is... I forget 2 things for every one I learn.
Yes, I have a multimeter, if that is what you are referring to, and know some basics about its use. Electronics have always been challenging for me but I'm always ready for another challenge..... btw thanks very much for your patience/help.
Because of the changing symptoms, I would want to know that all of the major connections are making good contact and are not loose.
Battery cables, grounds, etc.
I recommend troubleshooting with the correct test equipment rather than getting out the shot gun and going on a hunt. One risks losing the problem only having it show up later, 100 miles from home, in the dark and in the rain.
It is a cheap analog job. Electro-Tek is the only identifier, no model #. It is showing 13 volts on my cycle battery and 12 volts on my auto battery. Will this work or do I need a real one?
Any recommendations on buying one? Not only am i a newbie to the vulcan and electronic troubleshooting, I'm a newbie to forums so I'm trying to figure out this too. Why when I post a "quick reply" does it not show up with the rest of the thread (but apparently in some other place) and what type of reply should I post? quick or otherwise. FAQs didn't help much with explaining the purpose etc. of the post variations and I don't have unlimited time to learn what with two jobs, 2 kids still at home, and a wife (which is a full time job in itself, having a wife that is.).
Is it a good idea to get one with a clamp? Or is that not necessary. I've seen some diagnostic videos using the clamp versions which of course also have the standard leads.
OK, I've ordered one that should arrive Monday. In the meantime I work the next 3 days 14-16 hours so won't have any time top use it until Tuesday. Let me know the first thing I need to do once I get the tool and the time and thanks again for your help.
The battery is reading 12.79 volts. There is no electrical activity when key is switched on. No head or tail lights, horn, fuel pump dash lights turn signals. Nothing.
I've replaced the solenoid/starter relay twice. New 30 amp fuses come with that part. Additionally, all the fuses I could locate on the bike were checked before I reached out for help.
Checked white wire pin in solenoid connector (while disconnected from solenoid)-0.00 volts. Also checked by pushing red lead down into solenoid connector (beside white wire) while connector was connected to solenoid, also -0.00 volts (not sure which you wanted me to do).
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