Been struggling with intermittent fuel line kink problems. After a few fuel line replacements and kinks, I now believe to have the kinks worked out(ugh, puns) using 3/8 fuel line and 90degree angle barbs.
In the meantime, I burnt out my starter relay by jumping the dead battery in my last stranded situation. Bought a used replacement from an Ebay part-out and expected everything to fire right back up. Instead I keep re-draining the battery. Bought a brand new battery(as the auto shop tested the old one and it was defective).
Now, with a fresh battery reading 12.8V fully charged, I am still not able to start the bike. So, after reading many postings from here(especially the very helpful sfair posts), I took a few readings today and hoped someone might have some helpful insight.
Resting Battery - 12.8V
Key on Battery - 12.55V
Relay Hot, no key - 12.76
Relay Hot, key on - 12.55
Relay connect(don't know proper term for other side of relay) - 8.5-10V when pressing start button
R/Y wire resting - 12.46
R/Y wire w key on - 12.33
R/Y pressing start - 7-9V
BR wire resting - 0V
BR wire key on - 11.96V
BR wire start pressed - 6-9V
Thanks for reading. I appreciate any and all insight.
Understandable. Me too, just putting a call out cause I'm beyond my own knowledge and growing frustrated. Spring is ending quickly in AZ and I would like 1 last joy ride at least.
Seems this fuel line design is flawed from the start too. Twisting back and down creates every opportunity for kinks. With this resolved, I am now troubled as the bike always started immediately before this burnt relay issue :/
For readers sake: don't jump your MC with a car battery while it's running. It will overload your wiring system (or starter relay as in my case) etc.
05 1500 Classic Fi
25k miles
No mods
Won't start. Was running fine. Fuel line kinked during ride(fixed the fuel line issue). Fried starter relay attempting to jumpstart. Puts like it wants to start though. Tried priming, starter fluid etc. but still won't fire up.
Sure, the OEM fuel line was kinked (see pic) and rather than buying a $120 replacement, I created one using 3/8" fuel hose and 3/8" ID barbs to make the turn back to the engine. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with Japanese fuel pump off eBay. Pump is confirmed and tested as working.
1. Take voltage reading across battery.
2. Turn on key and take another reading.
3. Leave key on for 5 minutes and then take another reading.
4. Turn off key and after 5 minutes, take another reading.
Post back with 4 readings.
What was the original problem that you were having that caused you to replace pump?
Wires fell off of pump inside tank originally. Coincidentally, the pump was not working when bench testing, so it was replaced. I think I threw the old one away(maybe big mistake?). New OEM's are $500 and I think I read somewhere that you can clean up the motor contacts on them?
Anyhow, now I'm conflicted with whether to look to fuel system or fire system since I've had problems in both:/ Pump is only 200 miles old now, but I did have a mechanic tell me they're junk and to only use OEM.
Oops, something wrong with those readings.
I have never seen a battery that can hold its exact output voltage under load vs. no load.
Also, one reading missing.
So, the original problem was that the bike would not start, or quit, etc. when wires fell off?
Fuel pump is really another older matter(resolved). The problem that cascaded to now was a kinked fuel line but I didn't know it, so I drained old battery attempting to start. Used a running car to jump start and burnt my starter relay. Now I cannot get to start up again after installing a relay replacement.
Tried shooting starter fluid into right intake while turning over and it didn't sneeze. Thinking electrical issue. Thoughts?
Turned over a few times, pulled plugs(200mi old) and did see some moisture. Also blackened, so I am wire brushing. Holding plug to chassis results in spark FYI. Pics attached...thank you.
Wow. 200 miles and they look like that?
I do not recommend using a metallic brush to clean plugs as it can leave a metal deposit on the insulator and provide an alternate path for the spark.
A bristle brush and some carb cleaner will do the job.
Clean the plugs and try again.
If you still have a no-start, pull plugs and see if they are fuel soaked.
All four plugs tested and show spark. FI light turns off after a few secs, yes. Oil light stays on however. Putts and wants to start, yes. Choke doesn't make a difference. Throttling helps to make putt and attempt to start. Thanks.
Pulled tank off to check for irregularities or disconnects.
2 things:
1) does anyone know what these 2 connections are for coming off the harness(see attached)? Black/Yellow and White/Blue? They weren't plugged into anything and have very wide connectors on the end. Thinking they should be connected to something since they're gauge size is considerable. Is this just for accessories perhaps?
2) after attempting to start, there is a clicking sound after starter disengages. 4-5clicks and then pump turns off.
No. Just the starter relay burnout due to using a running auto to jump:/
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Kawasaki Vulcan Forum
712.7K posts
67.9K members
Since 2008
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, Vulcan 1500, Vulcan 2000, Vulcan 500, Vulcan 1600, Vulcan 900 and all other Vulcan motorcycles.