Looking for any ideas on my starting issue. My 99 has 63K miles and is all stock. I've had it since new.
My symptoms are that it doesn't ever crank very strong. If the bike has sat for several days and if it's a little cool outside it cranks very weak. It has always started, but sometimes I'll have to crank it 3-4 times before it starts. By the 3rd or 4th attempt it sounds like the battery is about done, but somehow it eventually catches and it starts.
It's literally been this way for a few years. When I replace a battery it fires up immediately, but that only seems to last a month or two and then it's back to the way it was.
What I've done:
Battery voltage bike off is 12.8 V
Battery voltage bike high idle is 14 V
Cleaned battery terminals and cables
Cleaned ground to engine
Cleaned connections on Solenoid terminals.
Since my voltage readings are acceptable and my main power connections are clean and tight, I'm at a loss as to why it cranks poorly. A couple years ago I did remove my starter and took it apart looking for signs of trouble. Aside from having some grime in there from the worn brushes it looked perfect. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it.
At what point did you check the battery voltage with the bike off - with a new battery, or after the battery has been in use for a few months? And was the battery voltage with the bike off checked after the bike hasn't been used for a few days? About all that comes to mind is that there is something which is slowly draining the battery, and repeat episodes will shorten battery life.
Charging voltage is what it should be, so the problem apparently isn't the alternator, but it could be the regulator/rectifier if there is a bad diode which is allowing current backflow from the battery to the alternator when the engine is switched off.
1. Take voltage reading across battery
2. Turn on key and take another reading.
3. Leave key on for a full 5 minutes, then take another reading.
4. Turn off key, wait 5 minutes and then take another reading.
I'll start measuring again. I did ride it in to work today, so I'll take these readings tonight. I forgot to mention that I did do a parasitic draw test on it and found no current going through the system when the key is off. I have no electronic aftermarket accessories on it, so hopefully that will simplify the process. Thanks guys. I'll post back with my readings.
Basically, if the bike sits for a few days it seems to crank slowly. If I ride it every day it starts up easily. I put in a new battery over this past summer and this issue seemed to go away, but it came back within a couple months. Like I said the bike will eventually start, but will require a lot more cranking now, especially if it's sat for several days. You think I purchased too weak a battery perhaps? I'll have to see what the CCA rating is on the one I have. Aside from the staring issue, it runs great. I could let the bike sit for several days and check the battery voltage again to see if it's dropped off considerably.
Because the prior battery I had was exhibiting the same symptoms, I took it to the auto parts place and had it load tested. They said it tested fine so I put it back in. It was probably a 2 year old battery at the time. It suddenly died within 2 weeks of load testing. Popped in my current battery and all was perfect again for a couple months. Now it's back to the same symptoms. This doesn't appear to be a serious problem, but it's not right. Even though it has always started (sometimes reluctantly), it makes me worry sometimes when I have to start it up a long way from home.
I'll give that a try. I do not keep my bikes on a tender since they get ridden at least 1-2 times a week.
Just as an aside we're doing some development work where I work using Lithium Ion batteries and I popped one in my Concours about 14 months ago and it's amazing. The thing is maybe 4 inches long by 3 inches tall and 2 inches wide and weighs about 6 ounces. It feels like a small box of air. It's been firing up my Connie great. Unfortunately these don't have enough power to crank a big V-twin or I'd put one in my Vulcan, but the in line 4's seem to crank much easier. I will try to find a Lithium Ion battery for the Vulcan when I have to replace my current battery. I'm sure there's one with enough juice to work, just need to find one.
I do not like the idea of a constant battery tender as the battery should be able to crank and start your motorcycle even after sitting for a time. One can usually pick up on a battery that may be getting week where a battery tender may cover up noticing that. Then it just might leave you stranded 500 miles from home, in the dark and in the rain....
I agree with you on the use of a battery tender. I think they're great for long term maintenance over winter, but that's about it.
I checked out the Shorai battery you linked to. At $229 I'd be hard pressed to say I'd go for that. Knowing what we pay for the ones we purchased directly from the vendor that mark up is extraordinary. As these become more mainstream, they'll probably come down in price. I hope.
If it is high at 4000 rpm, it will be high at 2000 rpm.
I recommend voltage checks at the rpm that an engine normally runs and anything around a fast idle should do the job.
Checking at high rpm (which Kawasaki recommends) does not do much good if the engine is never operated at that rpm.
Since my bike is stock with no electric accessories, is it possible for a stock bike to have a current leak? I show no current (amps) when I put my leads between one of the battery terminals and cable.
Use only recommended oil viscosity for temperature range as recommended by Kawasaki.
I cannot add much. Owners tend to be very sensitive to the operation of their machines and when something seems amiss.
But without being there, it can be difficult.
I know mine, when the temp drops, cranks a little slower and sometimes catches my attention, but it always starts easily.
Maybe "hard starting" is a better description. When it does this it seems to crank normally but not start for the first two attempts. It will usually start on the third attempt, but by then I can notice the engine is cranking over more slowly. When I ride it every day, it will start immediately on the first try.
When I hit the starter button I only let it crank for 2-3 seconds. Then wait 5-10 seconds and repeat until it starts. When it has sat, it's almost like clockwork that it will start on the third attempt. Almost as though it doesn't have fuel until then.
Since it has always started, it's not the biggest deal, but I take good care of my things and like them to work properly. It's also just my sense of curiosity to figure things out.
1. Do you ever notice a smell of gas around the bike?
2. What happens if you just hold button until it starts? Remember, fuel pump only runs while button pushed.
No smell of gas.
I have tried just holding down the starter button and letting it crank for 5-6 seconds and it didn't start. 5-6 seconds isn't a long time, but it seems like a long time when you're cranking an engine.
Gonna jump in with a few questions. Is the bike carb or f.i.? Are you using the factory ignition switch or after market? And lastly, you have 13000 on the plugs, what heat range plug are you using, by that I mean what plug number
My 97 has always fired after no more than 4 revolutions even with 100000 on the odometer even when the battery was on its last legs at 12.0 volts
My bike is a carb model with stock ignition. I don't remember what the heat range is on my plugs, but I've always replaced them with original OEM plugs so haven't changed the heat range. So you've got 100K on your 97? That's awesome. I will eventually get there. Between my Vulcan, Concours and truck, none of them are accumulating miles too fast, which is kind of nice.
2 more questions and a couple of suggestions.
Do you use the choke and is your idle turned down like a Harley?
I have always given the throttle a blip before trying to fire, this gives a shot of gas direct into the manifold from the accelerator pump also pull the choke out halfway with mine first start of the day. These bikes have a compression release( kacr) and need to get up to or above 300 rpm to fire reliably, you say you hold the start button for 2 to 3seconds , count Mississippies
next time. Bet it starts by the 3 rd one
Elevater
I don't think I've got my idle set too low. I do use the choke when the engine is cold consistently. For a hot engine I've found that holding the throttle open a little bit when I hit the starter seems to let it fire right up. I think the throttle blip before hitting the starter button is a good idea. Maybe that small squirt of gas would be enough to fire it up. I've been riding the bike fairly regularly lately so it hasn't really exhibited the problem. Until it sits for 4-5 days it doesn't really struggle to start. Thanks for the suggestions.
I went threw something like this with my ninja 250 for years. I had bought a cheap battery from walmart. What fixed it was ordering an AGM(absorbed glass mat) battery with the highest cold cranking amps that fit. Had to order online. All new bikes come with AGM batteries these days I believe,Harleys I know do. You never need a trickle charger with them.I leave it all winter in 0 degrees and it has a full charge in the spring. The cheap one would be dead. I can purposely leave my choke off when cold and let it turn over 20 seconds and it still turns over 100%.
You said when you put in a new battery its fine for a month or two right? That's exactly what happened with my old bike, i bet its not enough cold cranking amps combined with low deep cycle ability of flooded lead acid battery. I think the suggestions of not enough fuel or improper spark plugs don't apply because you said it is fine for a month after a new battery? BTW someone mentioned lithium batteries. From what I remember most people install those for the weight savings and many complain they don't work well in cold weather, and of course expensive.
You know I think you're right. I'm going to pull the battery out and see what the CCA rating is on my battery.
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