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1992 vn 88 1500

6K views 44 replies 8 participants last post by  94vulcan1500 
#1 ·
My bike wouldn't start this morning. I had replaced the battery about 1 week ago, thinking that was the problem. I push started the bike, and rode about 12 miles, before it died again. This time as I was riding. I could not get it to restart(of course it died going up hill). I pushed it the rest of the way home. Any ideas? I'm thinking stator, but I'm not sure how to test it.
 
#2 ·
Do you have a good meter? If so, charge the battery, and check the voltage across it. Start the bike and check the voltage across the battery at idle and with engine running around 3000 RPMs. Report back with all three measurements and we can go from there.
 
#5 ·
1992

No, I push started it and rode 12 miles. I only pushed it about 4 blocks, but up a not so insignificant hill. I'll charge the battery when I get home in the morning, and let you know. My only problem is I don't have a tach. I'll do my best though. Thanks!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Do a simple test:
Charge the battery so you can start the bike.
Check the voltage on the battery with the ignition off.
Start it and test the voltage again, in idle and revving up
If the voltage drops when you rev up it means the alternator is not charging.
If the voltage drops idling but goes above unloaded battery level when you rev up it's the voltage regulator.
If the voltage reads above the unloaded level idling and revved up the charging system is working and you have to look elsewhere...
You could also have small short in the circuitry and the vampire short would drain your battery over a day or two when you are not riding...
 
#9 ·
1992

Sorry that took so long guys! I had a heck of a time finding my charger. I tested the battery. Unloaded-12.7V. At idle- 12.26V. Revved up-12.32V. I watched the headlight as i revved it up. I couldn't notice it dim, or brighten. Of course, this was tested in a garage with the overhead lights on. I'm kinda lost now.
 
#14 ·
It seems that it still puts out a little (charges) since you got the voltage to raise when you rev up.
Nowhere near what you need however because the voltage with the engine running is still lower than measured on unloaded battery.
It would make sense that you can still ride for a week as the battery is slowly discharged...
 
#17 ·
1992

ok sfair. I'm not at home right now, so I'm not sure the model #, but my meter is an older digital Fluke. I was planning on doing some testing,according to my Clymer manual. But that says I have to have a Kawasaki hand tester. I will await any more feedback before I start. And in the morning, I will post the model # of my meter. thanks for helping guys!!!!
 
#18 ·
Your Fluke DVM is perfect for doing the testing. The only problem you may run into is that the tests described in the manual may say something like, "Set the meter to R x 100 and do this..." Your meter will autorange, just let the meter do its thing, and post what the readings are along with what function you set your meter to.
 
#21 ·
Well you do have the three wires (typically yellow) coming off the stator that could have a bad connection, so it definitely worth checking those. To check the stator you really need access to those three wires anyway. Maybe he'll be lucky and it will be a bad connection of one of those three.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Alright. I did a little testing. First, my meter is a digital fluke 110. I tested between the 3 wires for resistance. I got readings of .6 and .7. I checked for continuity between the 3 wires and ground, and didn't get an alarm. What next? To my limited ability, that sounds like the stator is good. I checked the regulator as best I could according to my clymers manual, and it seems to read what the book says it should. But I may be wrong of course!
 
#29 ·
Could you do this to start:

1. Take voltage reading across battery.
2. Turn on key and take another reading.
3. Leave key on for a full 5 minutes and then take another reading.
4. Key off, wait another 5 minutes and then take another reading.

Post back with 4 readings.
 
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