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help with electrical issue!

4K views 36 replies 5 participants last post by  JC's-Blue-custom 
#1 ·
Okay, got an issue that I'm not sure where to go with. Bike had an issue with the stator going bad, no charging. Replaced stator & rectifier with Rick's Motorsports items. Was riding for a week or two, rode in the rain one afternoon, got caught in quick shower, bike just dies. Trailer it home, found main 30 amp fuse blown and the middle terminal on the rectifier plug is slightly pulled out. Replaced fuse, disconnected the rectifier to check charging system. Stator check okay, rectifier bad. Replaced rectifier and terminal on plug. Reconnected everything, all good. About 2 days later, riding to work @ 4:30am, headlight goes out, voltage meter to 12.1, no charging! Got back to a parking lot. Towed home that night. Checked stator with rectifier unplugged, check fine. Checked rectifier, bad diode test. Replaced rectifier, still no charge and no headlight. Could here a banging/grinding noise in front of engine, come to find out starter is trying to engage. After doing some research, found out that if starter does not disengage, headlight does not come on and charging system does not work. Did some testing on relay block and found an issue in it. Got a new one and replaced. Now bike does not want to idle, misses, spits. Charging and headlight work! check relay block, all appears good. So I put my old one on, bike starts and runs great, but no headlight or charging! I'm totally at a loss for where to look next. HELP! I'm totally confused!:confused:
 
#9 ·
You may have a dirty starter switch. I don't have specific instructions for a 900, but for most bikes it's pretty easy to open up the control housing and get to the switch. Clean the contacts, put some dielectric grease on them and put it back together.

On my old Honda Sabre, I made it an annual maintenance item to clean and check it.
 
#11 ·
Sorry for just getting back on this. I've been crazy busy at work and such. I bypassed the starter switch and off/on button yesterday to eliminate them. Same issue. I will have to get back to you later with my meter info. It's a Fluke, but I'm not sure of the model. Thanks for your help.
 
#19 ·
Right now the new one. The original one dies not let the charging system operate due to a bad diode on the starter function. When we first had it in with the new solenoid I'm fairly sure the bike ran fine, just ne headlight or charging and I still had the sound of the starter trying to engage. Once we replaced the Relay block, the headlight came on and the charging system operated. When I came back the following evening to button it up, I put everything back together and the bike would not start. Had 11.8v at the battery, so I put a battery charger on it for an hour, voltage came up to 12.9. Bike started, but then started to miss and pop when you applied any type of throttle to it. Took out the plugs to see what they looked like, black, cleaned them and put back in same results. Got new plugs the next day and put in same results.
 
#20 ·
OK, you have a complicated problem here, so I want to be clear:

1. New stator and reg/rect installed. Are they OEM or aftermarket?
2. New relay box installed. New or used?
3. Now runs like crap.
4. Headlight and starter run-on are fixed.

Is the above correct?

5. How many miles on it?
6. Is there a fuel processor installed?
7. Any driveability issues before this event, no matter how unrelated?
8. Any other electrical repairs/mods beside the above?
 
#21 ·
1. Yes new stator & Reg/Rct. Stator and Rectifier all came from Rick's Motorsports Electric .
2. Installed Relay box is new, OEM.
3. Correct.
4. Headlight issue definitely fixed. As for the starter I do not hear that noise anymore, so I got to assume it's fixed.

5. Around 22000
6. No
7. No
8. Added a voltage/USB charging accessory to read the voltage while riding and also charge my IPhone (May 2015) and the battery maintainer leads (2013). Drilled out baffles on pipes back in May 2015.
 
#24 ·
I double checked the wires when I sent the stator out to be tested at Rick's (the replacement). I thought it had an issue after the last bike breakdown. They said it was fine and sent me a replacement with longer leads, as cut those short and did not want 2 splices in the lines.

As far as I know the battery has never been installed backwards.

No problem asking questions or answering. I know troubleshooting electrical issues is a pain.
 
#26 ·
1. No
2. Did them at 15000 last summer
3. Not really. When it pops there is a little black smoke but you really have to be looking at it. there was no smoke before hand that I am aware of.
4. Havent' heard any, but with so much going on I really haven't listen for it.
5. Took the ign. switch off to check it. Did some ground checks. Tested the relay block like it called out in the manual, just continuity, did not apply power to it when testing. Check the water temp sensor last night, checked okay from what readings I got. Removed the Off/on switch and starter button from the circuit and tested with a lead and momentary push button to eliminate them. Bike started okay, but still had the miss/pop issue. Check one of the leads to the ECU for power and got it. Have not gone any further.
 
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