Join Date: May 2016
Location: Green Bay WI
Year/Make/Model: 2008 Vulcan 900 Classic
Slow speed maneuvers like the offset cone weave, u-turns, tight turns from a stop, are all best done with enough power applied with the throttle and clutch (always in the friction zone) to in effect, "push" the front tire on the path of travel. With power applied pushing the front tire, especially when it is turned into the path of travel makes the bike want to stand up. That makes it much easier to balance the bike. The motorcycle cops on you tube do it basically that way. They apply a bit of throttle, leave it set and vary the speed with the clutch and rear brake. NO front brake.
Next, you have to plan your path of travel by looking well ahead. In the case of the offset cone weave, as SOON as your path is committed for the cone you are at look ahead PAST the next cone. By looking at least one cone ahead you are setting the path you want the bike to take. But the real emphasis of this is planning your path of travel. In order to make a cycle go where YOU want it to go, accurately, is to always plan your path of travel. That applies at parking lot speeds and highway speeds.
Now, the comment from the previous post, if I understand it correctly, is WAY off: "I also suggest brake stabbing for emergency stops, but don't flat top your tires. This will show you and teach you stopping limits which a lot don't practice or know."
Brake STABBING? What do you mean by stabbing? The word "stabbing" is way to close to grabbing, stomping, locking the brakes, all very dangerous ways to apply brakes. NEVER stab the brakes unless you are highly skilled. To refine your braking skills you have to feel the weight transfer forward during braking, and then learn to progressively apply more front and less rear brake. Effective high effort braking is always done with firm, progressive, increasing effort on the front brake and progressive relaxed effort on the rear brake. Do repeated practice stops in a straight line on a clean, level surface. Get used to feeling the weight transfer to the front, while looking WELL ahead of the bike to maintain stability. SQUEEEEEEZE firmly onto the front brake with firm progressive action right to the end of the stop. Then, once you have developed the feel for the weight transfer of braking, practice again using that feel and squeeze quicker to reduce your stopping distance. Note I emphasized squeeze again and again, doing that will teach you weight transfer and effective braking without skidding either tire.
IF you do apply too much brake and skid the front tire IMMEDIATELY release the front brake and squeeze back on the front brake. If you do apply too much rear brake and skid the rear tire, ride the skid to the stop, and then apply MUCH less rear brake on the next attempt.
I've have students tell me/ask me, should I apply the rear brake first and then the front brake? Nope, no reason to apply the rear brake first. Effective braking is done with both brakes in progressive balanced action. Especially for high effort/emergency stops, that split second of wasted time applying the rear brake first wastes very precious braking distance that may stop you short of impact. Also, most everyone I've taught that use the "rear brake first" technique very likely are not effective and practiced on the front brake. Most often they lock/slide the rear brake and do not use enough of the front brake. Effective braking is a critical skill to master. ALL these braking actions on cruiser style bikes must be done with the heel of your right boot on the floorboard and you modulate the rear brake with the ball/toe of your boot.
Last edited by andyvh1959; 06-27-2016 at 11:37 AM.